London is a great city for walking in and London walks make for a great way to really get to know the streets and hidden places that are a joy to discover.
With so many London walks to choose from it is almost impossible to select an absolute favourite.
However, if absolutely forced to choose, say for example you have a limited amount of time in London, then I would say that a walk around the St Paul’s and Smithfield area really captures the essence of the perfect London walk.
London walks St Paul’s to Smithfield.
You could begin your walking tour on the steps of St. Paul’s Cathedral, the masterpiece of 17th century architect Sir Christopher Wren. From there you could head past the white statue of Queen Anne (the monarch on the throne when St Paul’s was completed in 1710).
Turn first right into Ave Maria Lane, and first left into the courtyard before Stationers Hall. This is one of the trade/ guild hall’s of old London.
Go first right through the covered passage and pause by the gateposts on the left beyond which is Amen Court. These buildings all date from the late 1600’s and are where the clergy of St Paul’s Cathedral live. Some of them have link extinguishers outside their doors (the black things that look like large candle snuffers). Link extinguishers go back to the days when people were led around London by night by link boys who would light the way with a torch or a link. These are where the links were extinguished.
Turn your back to the gateposts walk to the corner and go left along Ave Maria Lane. Keep ahead until, towards the top on the left, you come to the brick frontage of Cutlers Hall. The frieze above its window was made by Benjamin Creswick and shows the art of the cutler (a maker of knives and forks) in great detail.
Continue and go left along Newgate Street. You will pass the Central Criminal Courts on your left, which are better known as the Old Bailey. You can, if time permits, attend one of the trials inside by lining up at the door on the left, just after the large shutter. However, be warned they don’t allow cameras inside.
Continue your London walk.
Cross Newgate Street at the traffic lights, towards the Viaduct Tavern, and then go right along Giltspur Street. The church opposite is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre without Newgate, or St Sepulchre. It is the church in the nursery rhyme Oranges and Lemons whose bells ring out to say “when will you pay me say the bells of Old Bailey.” A reference to the fact that Newgate Prison used to stand on the site now occupied by the Old Bailey and, until 1868, executions were carried out in public in the square in front of the prison. It was the bells of St Sepuclhre’s that tolled the signal for an execution to commence, hence “when will you pay me” meant you had paid the ultimate price!
Your London walk continues along Giltspur street by crossing to its left side and pausing at the junction with Cock Lane. On the corner opposite is a chubby, golden boy. He is the Fat Boy of Pye Corner and he marks the spot where the Great Fire of London burnt out in 1666. Londoners saw the fact that the fire began at Pudding Lane and finished at Pye Corner as a sign from God that they had been punished for the sin of gluttony. So this boy was put up to commemorate this and beneath him it reads “this boy is in memory put up for the late fire of London occasion’d by the sin of gluttony 1666.”
Continue along Giltspur Street, crossing to its right side. The buildings you are now passing are those of St Bartholomew’s Hospital (Bart’s to Londoners). Founded in 1123 this is the oldest hospital in London to still stand on its original site.
When you reach the gatehouse of Bart’s step into the road and look up at the only statue to Henry V111 in London. He lords it over the main gate and remembers the fact that when Henry dissolved the monastery of St Bartholomew’s he gave the hospital to the City of London.
To continue with your London walk keep ahead into West Smithfield. Notice the damaged hospital wall on your right. This is sharpnel damage from a bomb that was dropped on the square by a Zeppelin in 1916.
A little further along on the right is a plaque commemorating the execution here in 1305 of the Scottish Patriot Sir William Wallace.
The Black and white timbered gatehouse ahead dates from 1595 and if you walk beneath it you come to London’s oldest Parish Church, the Parish Church of St. Bartholomew the Great which was founded in 1123. Although there is an admission charge of £4 it is £4 well spent as this is a lovely old church with plenty to occupy you.
If you are not visiting the church then continue your London walk by going up the steps and across the churchyard.
The gabled building opposite the churchyard dates back to the early 1600’s and so predates the Great Fire of London.
Squeeze down the alley to its left, looking up at the dummy window on the wall above Betjamins restaurant. This is called the Sailors Home Coming and shows a sailor newly returned from the sea being welcomed home by his family.
Follow the alley right then left. Turn right along Long Lane and at the end go left to arrive at Barbican Station where this one of our London walks ends.
This London walk should take around an hour and twenty minutes, although you may want to linger a little longer and really get in to this wonderful area.
It is typical of the hidden places that our London walks introduce you to and which bring the city so vividly to life.
You may want to just print this off and do the walk yourself, but you can also join us for a guided walking tour of London around this area on a walk that we call The Secret City.
