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London walks - Postman’s Park

Tuesday, September 29th, 2009

The City of London walks that we offer include some great themes and visit some absolutely wonderful places.

A little way from St. Paul’s there is a lovely little garden known as Postman’s Park. At first glance it seems a peaceful and tranquil place until you take a closer look at the walls behind its bushes and plant beds and you notice that several have tombstones stacked against them.

This is because the garden was once the combined burial ground for several churches that stood hereabouts. Thee have been no burials here since the 1830’s and it has been a garden since the late 19th century so there aren’t actually any former Londoners lying beneath its lawns.

Until the 1980’s this lovely little garden was surrounded by postal buildings and the post men used to use the garden to relax in during their breaks and to eat heir lunches - hence its name Postman’s Park.

When we take people into the garden on our City of London walks we point out the church of  St. Botolph Aldersgate which can be seen in the north east corner of the garden. If the church is open we even go inside it, and it really is a high point on our London walks.

There are three churches dedicated to St Botolph in the City of London and the all stood next to a City gate, remembering the days when London was a walled city.

The other two churches to share this dedication are St. Botolph’s Aldgate and St. Botolph’s Bishopsgate.

The reason they were built by City gates is that St. Botolph was a patron saint of travellers and when, in the Middle Ages, people used to leave the safety of the City of London to Walk the dangerous highways and byways that stretched away from the walls, they would stop off at the churches to say a prayer to St. Botolph for protection for their journey.

Should they return safely to London then they would be sure to re-visit the church in order that they might say a prayer of thanks to St. Botolph.

So just an ordinary little church that stands on a busy London thoroughfare really does give you something to look at and provide you with a few nuggets of information that, although perhaps not earth shattering, are certainly interesting.

It’s the discovery of this sort of fact and building that makes our London walks such a great way to see so much more of the City.

More on the London Blitz and Its Aftermath.

Tuesday, August 18th, 2009

In yesterday’s London walks Blitz blog it was explained how the Luftwaffe was unaware of the extent of the destruction they had caused to London and that General Sperrle regarded the raid as a failure.

He believed this to be the case because the second wave did not strike. Aerial reconnaissance was impossible as the low cloud still hung over the target city.

However, the official Luftwaffe report states, ‘Rarely if ever were fires of such number and size perceived during a single attack against the capital.’

Sixteen firemen had been killed and 250 detained in hospital, largely with temporary blindness, but many with severe burns and smoke-damaged lungs. One hundred and sixty-three civilians had been killed (largely living in the residential areas immediately outside the City), and 509 had been seriously injured. St Bartholomew’s Hospital in the City had received 123 casualties in the course of the night.

Seven areas that our covered on our Historical London walks had been completely burned out.

Looking at a map of the city, the areas can be traced along the streets. The first ran along Beech Street and Chiswell Street, turning north to take in the Artillery Ground with a northern limit at Bunhill Fields, south along Moorgate to Gresham Street, turning south again at Milk Street down to Cheapside, then south at Bread Street to Queen Victoria Street running along as far as Bracken House, next turning south to the riverside, along the river to Blackfriars, along both sides of New Bridge Street, turning west at Tudor Street, north again to cross Fleet Street running back east to the railway line at Seacoal Lane, north into Old Bailey along Newgate Street, crossing over to Christchurch Newgate Street and the Post Office’s King Edward Building, then turning onto Aldersgate Street running north to complete the area at Beech Street. This was the largest area of devastation.

Another devastated area that is covered on our London walks is that bounded by Chancery Lane on the west, Holborn on the north, Shoe Lane on the east and Fleet Street on the south.

The third area ran along Queen Street on the west, Cannon Street on the north, London Bridge on the east and the river on the south.

The fourth area covered Leadenhall Street at the north, bounded by the Tower and Fenchurch Street to the east and ran south from Leadenhall Street down to Lower Thames Street.

Area five was from Houndsditch on the south to Middlesex Street on the north, with its eastern boundary reaching nearly to Bishopsgate.

The sixth area was the zone mentioned at the beginning of this chapter: centring on the Minories, it encompassed the stretch from Aldgate Bus Station down to the river south and west of the Tower.

The seventh area was across the river in Southwark. The riverfront from Tower Bridge to London Bridge consisted entirely of burned-out warehouses, with the destruction stretching back through London Bridge Railway Station and along Borough High Street as far as St Thomas’s Street.

All mainline railway termini were out of action with the exception of Liverpool Street Station.

Hundreds of banks, offices and warehouses were gutted wrecks.

But it was the destruction of the Wren churches which gripped the minds of the press and public.

The City was never an area distinguished for the beauty of its buildings. The old offices of the City had a certain aggregate charm and character. The Livery Halls of the City’s Guilds were opulent structures, some with splendid interior woodwork and fine collections of gold and silverware, but they tended to express corporate wealth and pomp rather than good taste.

It was London Bridge ’s churches which represented what was most glorious and beautiful in this commercial capital.

Sir Christopher Wren, the architect to the King in the years after the Great Fire of London, 1666, had built fifty churches in the ‘Square Mile’ apart from St Paul’s Cathedral. This may sound a little excessive, but eighty-nine churches had been destroyed by the fire, so Wren had in fact rationalized with his fifty new buildings.

Wren was a Classical architect, moving over to Baroque towards the end of his long career. Each church had a distinct appearance; each tower or steeple some mark of individuality to distinguish it from the surrounding forest of spires; the interiors, richly decorated with plaster were tranquil refuges for contemplation away from the noise and bustle of the City.

Time, and more particularly the Victorians, had dealt harshly with these churches. Between 1870 and 1890 nearly twenty had been demolished to make way for banks.

Tomorrow we’ll describe briefly a London walk around the main area of devastation.

London Wall and its Gates on our Walks.

Friday, July 31st, 2009

Our Walks in London range from Walks that include Roman London, Anglo Saxon London and medieval London.

On each of this City of London walks we encounter and discuss the wall that once encircled the City.

The City wall extended from Aldgate to Bishopsgate, which guarded the Cambridge Road.
Bishopsgate was built about the reign of Henry II, for the purpose of making a new entry to the City between Aldgate and Aldersgate.

From the time of Edward VI to, that of James I, Bishopsgate was continuously in a ruinous state. James I, who was ever nervous for his crown, had a new gate built.

Moorgate was built or renewed about the year 1415 by Henry V, Stow, the London historian, says that no gate was here previous to this date, but there are reasons to believe that he was wrong.

Moorgate was rebuilt in 1472 and taken down about 1750, the stones being used to repair London Bridge.

Cripplegate was one of the minor entries into London, but was certainly one of the most ancient, and was rebuilt many times.

Stow records that it received its name through the many cripples who sat and begged there.

In 1010, when the Danes were approaching Bury St. Edmunds, the body of Edmund the Martyr was brought to London, and as it passed through Cripplegate it is said that many persons rose upright and began to walk.

Cripplegate was rebuilt by the brewers of London in 1244, and again, in 1491 at the cost of 400 marks left by Edmund Shaw, goldsmith and ex-mayor.

In the reign of Charles II it was repaired and made more elaborate.

All the country outside the wall between Bishopsgate and Aldersgate was a marsh. This gave rise to the names Moorfields and Finsbury (Fensbury).

Aldersgate or (Elders-gate) was one of the largest of the gates of London. It had crumbled into uselessness by the time of James 1, and was replaced by a new one.

In the early part of the 11th century there were only three gates to London — Aldgate, Aldersgate, and Ludgate.

Newgate was built at the time of Henry I. In common with the others, this was rebuilt many times, but final-1Y destroyed in the Gordon riots of 1780.

The prison, which met a similar fate, was rebuilt, but no steps were taken to replace the gate.

Ludgate had more history associated with it than any other . It is said that this was taken down in 1760 at the request of the inhabitants of the Farringdon wards.

According to tradition, this gate was built by the famous King Lud, in 66 B.C.

But a more feasible explanation of the name is given by historians, who suggest that its original name was Flood or Fleet.

Lud Gate was another through which the Barons entered London in the reign of King John. Once inside they appear to have raided the houses of the Jews, pulled down their buildings and used the stone for rebuilding Lud Gate.

Lud Gate was again repaired in 1260, and decorated with images of King Lud and other monarchs.

During the reign of Edward VI, when England was developing a conscience against idolatry, the heads of Lud and his family were cut off. Queen Mary, however, restored them.

In the reign of Elizabeth (1586) the old gate was pulled down and rebuilt, with images of Lud and a statue of the Queen. It cost £1500.

During the demolition a stone was found with the inscription: “This is the ward of Rabbi Moses, the son of the honourable Rabbi Isaac.”

When old Lud Gate was pulled down the statues of Lud and his sons were thrown into the parish bone-house.

They were eventually bought by the Marquis of Hertford and placed in Regent’s Park at Hertford Villa.

The statue of Elizabeth was placed in a niche of the wall of old St. Dunstan’s Church on Fleet.She can still be seen in a niche on the wall of St Dunstan’s Church, whilst the statues of King Lud and his sons are also now located in a recess in the porch of this same church.

London Gates On Our Walks.

Thursday, July 30th, 2009

On our City of London walks we wander through streets with names such as Bishopsgate, Aldgate and Newgate Street. Every so often we encounter plaques, such as one on the wall of the Old Bailey which tells passersby that this was the site of Newgate Demolished in 1780.

Other streets and places encountered on our London walks also remember the long vanished gates of London. Our Jack the Ripper Tour, for example starts at Aldgate East Underground Station, which remembers Aldgate, the eastern gate into the City of London.

These gates remember the long ago days when a wall encircled the entire City of London and people had to Walk in and out of these gates to gain admission to the capital or to leave it behind. Each of these gates has a tale (several have many tales to tell) of the people and events that were connected with them.

Those who join our historical City of London walks learn about these  tales.

For example we tell how on July 30th, 1760 three old London gates  -  those of Cripplegate, Aldgate, and Ludgate - were sold to a Mr. Blagden, a carpenter, of Coleman Street, City, for a total of £416 10s.

He gave an undertaking to remove the gates and the “rubbish” connected therewith, by the end of September.

The contract was carried out, and the autumn of that year saw the end of all the London gates except Newgate.

Newgate survived for another twenty years, when it was demolished by rioters.

These gates, of course, were not the original barriers of London. They had been renewed at various times.

The earliest gate in the walls of the City was Aldgate, or Eldgate as it was called in Saxon times.

This was hastily constructed to prevent invaders entering the City from the great Essex road.

During the war between King John and the barons it, was through this gate that the citizens of London let in the latter.

It suffered a good deal in the early part of the 13th century through civil wars,and the wood was replaced by stone.

It existed until the time of Elizabeth 1st, when a more ornamental one was put up in its place. This was the one sold in 1760.

Aldgate, being the nearest point in the City to the East Coast, was assaulted more than any other of the gates of London.

In 1471 Falconbridge, who had raised a force of seamen in Essex and Kent, came up the Thames with his ships and anchored near the Tower. The Mayor and Aldermen of the City fortified the Thames shore. Finding that London was not to be approached from the south side, the invaders attacked Aldgate with 5000 men.

The citizens dropped the portcullis of the gate, and cut off many of the assailants. When Earl Rivers and the Constable of the Tower arrived with reinforcements, London’s citizens counter-attacked and drove the besiegers as far as Stratford.

Aldgate was acquired from Blagden, the carpenter, by a Mr. Mussell of Bethnal Green, who had the gate rebuilt on the north side of his mansion, which was afterwards named Aldgate.

Hobson’s Choice

Tuesday, May 19th, 2009

Cambridge:- A Great Day Out From London

Walks are a great way to explore any historic city and, although London is the main focus of our walks, we can also offer sightseeing tours in other places other than London.

One of the cities we visit away from London (and we’ll soon be offering free walks to these places, more of which in a future blog) is Cambridge. We have many great anecdotes about Cambridge, such as the fact that it is where the saying Hobson’s Choice originated.

One of the Streets we visit in Cambridge is Hobson Street, named for Thomas Hobson (1544 - 1631), who
for over sixty years, drove a regular coach between the University and The Bull - a London inn situated in Bishopsgate - the site of which is covered on our Easter City London walks.

Hobson transported students and guests, and also carried letters between Cambridge and London.

When his horses weren’t being used to carry the mail between Cambridge and London Hobson would rent them out to students and academics from the University.

Needless to say his fastest horses were the ones most in demand and, realising that constant usage could wear these horses out, he opted for a system whereby his customers were offered no choice. They had to take the horse nearest to the door.

No matter how important the customer, nor how wealthy they were Hobson always stuck to his guns. Protesting customers would be met with a gruff “This one or none” from Hobson.

In time this became known as “Hobson’s Choice,” meaning you actually have no choice.