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Exploring Paternoster Square - London walks

Tuesday, September 29th, 2009

Standing in the middle of Paternoster Square and looking up at the mighty and glorious dome of St Paul’s Cathedral, you can’t help but draw breath in wonder and the splendid vision that unfolds around you.

Paternoster Square, which we cover on several of our London walks, is a lovely mix of old and new London.

On one side of the square is an arched gateway which is Temple Bar. It is the only one of London’s City gates to survive and gives you an idea of what London would have looked like when it was a walled and gated City.

Temple Bar used to stand at the junction of Strand and Fleet Street, a little to the west of its current location. For over two hundred years the daily life of London moved in and out through this gate.

It was built in 1672 and designed by Sir Christopher Wren, the same man who designed St Paul’s Cathedral, which towers over you as you stand in Paternoster Square.

It was the gate that separated the City’s of London and Westminster and the statues that you see on it are of James 1st and Anne of Denmark, plus Charles 1st and Charles 11.

From 1684 it was put to a somewhat gruesome use with parts of the bodies (usually the heads) of traitors being displayed on spikes above its arch. One enterprising tradesman actually set up a stall alongside Temple Bar and rented out telescopes for half a penny to enable people to get a closer look at their favourite or most infamous traitor!

In 1805, for the funeral of Admiral Horatio Lord Nelson,  Temple Bar was covered in black velvet as a tribute to the great Naval hero. Nelson, incidentally, is buried in St. Paul’s Cathedral.

But, by the 1870’s, London’s traffic was increasing and Temple bar was something of a hindrance to the smooth passage of the horse drawn. vehicles. Charles Dickens in his novel Bleak House refers to it as “that leaden headed old obstruction” and he pretty much reflected the attitude of London as a whole. Thus is 1878 it was taken down and moved to Theobald’s Park in Hertfordshire, the mansion of the brewing magnate Sir Henry Meux.

Over the next hundred years it was vandalised and allowed to fall into ruin. But, in 2003 when Pater Noster Square was being rebuilt, The Temple Bar Trust brought it back to central London and it was erected close to St Paul’s Cathedral, Sir Christopher Wren’s greatest legacy to the City of London.

The room over the gate can even be hired for private dinners by approaching the Chapter House of St. Paul’s Cathedral, which will be the subject of a later blog and which features, along with Temple Bar on our Historic City of London walks.

Legal London walks - Lord Russell

Tuesday, July 21st, 2009

In our previous blog on Saturday evening we told of the events leading up to the execution of William Lord Russell and told which of our London walks feature Lincoln’s Inn Fields, the site of the execution.

We ended by telling how Lord Howard was giving nhis evidence at the trail when news of the death of the Earl of Essex was brought to the court. Pausing in his evidence he announced that he could not continue “till he had given vent to his grief in some tears.”

But he soon recovered and told his story, the gist of which was that Lord Russell had spoken of seizing the King’s guards.

At the outset of the trial Lord Russell was asked if he would like a clerk to take down the evidence for him.

He turned, looked round the court, and then smiled. Facing the judge, he replied, “No, my wife is here.”

Throughout the whole of the proceedings Lady Russell took notes of the evidence.
Pemberton, the prosecuting counsel, opened his case fairly for the prisoner, but appears to have been egged on by Bloody Judge Jeffreys, who browbeat Russell and his witnesses in his best bullying style.

The jury was a “packed” one. They lost no time in bring¬ing in a verdict against the prisoner.

On the morning of July 21st, 1685, Lord Russell was led out to his execution. Arriving at the scaffold, he handed the sheriff a paper with his valedictory statement.

In it he said he thought his sentence “very hard,” and that killing by forms of law was the worst kind of murder.

He made a short address to the spectators, knelt in devotion„ and laid his head on the block “without the least change of countenance.”

It transpired afterwards that Russell might have escaped from prison. Lord Cavendish and the Duke of Monmouth both offered to take his place long enough for him to get away, but he would not let them endanger themselves.

Bishops Burnet and Tillotson and his wife were with him to the last.

Lady Russell lived another forty years, mourning the death of her husband.

Lord Russell was the son of William, fifth Earl of Bedford. Bythe death of his elder brother he became heir to the Earldom. After travelling on the Continent he was recalled home by his father to assist in the restoration of Charles II.

So if you join us for one of our Dickens London walks, or Legal London Walking tours you will most certainly see the spot where this eexecution took place.

A London Execution - Legal Walks.

Saturday, July 18th, 2009

Our Legal London walks invariably take you through Lincoln’s Inn Fields, which was once one of the capital’s execution grounds.

It would be difficult to find a more glaring injustice than the conviction and execution of Lord Russell for alleged complicity in the Rye House Plot.

In Lincoln’s Inn Fields, which we pass through on our Legal London walks, a tablet marks the spot where Russell met his death with the serenity of a hero and the demeanour of an innocent man.To the end he was comforted by the ministrations of his wife.

Rye House Plot was the name given to the abortive conspiracy to murder Charles II and his brother James, Duke of York, in 1683. Rye House was an isolated house near Hoddesdon, in Hertfordshire. The scheme of the plotters was to murder the royal brothers as they returned from Newmarket to London.

The authorities were warned by informers, and several arrests were made, including Lord Russell, Algernon Sidney, the Earl of Essex, and John Hampden.

These four were charged with forming a council of six to organize an insurrection. The other members of the council were the Duke of Monmouth and Lord Howard.

Essex, who might have made his escape, but preferred to stand by Russell, was afterwards found dead with his throat cut in the Tower of London.

Howard, who appears to have known more about the plot than anyone, was arrested in his house. He was found hiding inside a chimney.

He turned King’s Evidence and disclosed that Lord Shaftesbury had plotted a revolt by the City, that a party of soldiers were to be brought from Taunton, and that a council of six, of which he was one, had been deputed to make the arrangements.

Lord Howard was one of the chief witnesses against Russell, but there is good reason to believe that his evidence was false. An old soldier named Rumbold, also one of the leaders of the plot, testified against Russell.

Lord Russell was brought to his trial on the day that the Earl of Essex was found dead. When the news was brought to the court, Lord Howard was giving his evidence. He stopped, and said that he could not go on “till he had given vent to his grief in some tears.”

Our London Walking Tours that feature Lincoln’s Inn Fields include our Dickens London walks and our Legal London Tour.

We will continue with the story of William Lord Russell in Wednesdays Blog.

Parks on our London walks

Saturday, May 9th, 2009

One of the loveliest views on our London walks is to be had on our tour around St James’s. In the course of this Royal London walk we stroll through St James’s Park and to pause on the bridge that spans its delightful lake.

The lake was originally laid out in the reign of King Charles II and its picturesque curves were added in the reign of King George IV.

On his first morning in England, George 1V was presented with a pair of carp by a servant of the Steward of St James’s Park. The King accepted them and, in response to his courtiers’ advice, reluctantly gave the man two guineas.

But on asking where the fish had come from he was somewhat disgruntled to learn that they had in fact been caught in the Lake of St James’s Park, not a stones throw away from the room in which he was standing. Somewhat affronted by this the King remarked aloud, ‘What! Am I really expected to give two guineas to the servant of my steward who gives me my carp from my lake in my park?’

It cannot be denied that the view from the middle of the bridge over the lake is one of the most romantic in London. The sparkling water stretches towards the fountain, over which the buildings of Horse Guards, the pinnacles and turrets of the Old War Office and Whitehall Court tower and beyond this is the London Eye.

It really is a magical view and from here the whole vista combines to give the illusion of a massive fairytale palace or chateau. On a crisp winter’s morning the Portland stone from which the buildings are constructed just seems to shimmer in the winter’s sun. It really is one of the photographic moments on our London walks.

The bridge that spans the lake is the second on the site.… Its predecessor, a wooden suspension bridge, was erected in 1867, lasted a hundred years and its removal was not greeted enthusiastically by Londoners.

When the present bridge was built their was much debate as to who should pay for it. The Office of Works and Crown Commissioner were decidedly reticent as to whether or not it was their responsibility. An historian managed to trace a payment for the first bridge to a particular firm of solicitors, but when it was discovered that the firm in question handled Queen Victoria’s private affairs the matter of payment remained unresolved.

Indeed, the matter of Royal ownership of the bridge has never been confirmed or denied. What is undeniable, however, is that the view is truly breathtaking.

One of the things that really catches the eyes of participants on our Royal London walks is the abundance of water fowl that are visible on this lake.

Indeed, the section of the lake that stretches away from the bridge is home to hundreds of wild fowl that have been collected from all over the world. The most famous are the pelicans whose well-being is often discussed by the House of Commons.

The original pelicans were a gift from the Czar of Russia in 1660 and there have been pelicans in St James’s Park ever since.

However, throughout the 1960’s their numbers saw a rapid decline and by 1970 just one survived. The newspapers nicknamed her “The Lady of the Lake,” although the park’s bird-keeper knew her by the more mundane name of Daphne.

In discussions about replenishing the lake’s pelican stock it was remembered who had presented the original pelicans and an approach was made to the Russian Ambassador. In due course a brace of pelicans duly arrived and were let loose on the lake.

Unfortunately these new birds failed to understand the stately elegance of their new surroundings. It wasn’t long before they discovered that small birds were equally as appetising as the fish they were meant to eat. Horror stories abounded about the dietary habits of the newcomers with the newspapers even raging about ‘Russian aggression.’

One Member of Parliament complained how his children had nightmares after seeing a pigeon they were feeding being suddenly gulped down by a pelican.

Diplomatic considerations meant that drastic action could be taken to rid the lake of the scourge of these incomers, so the Russian pelicans were discreetly retired to the Zoo ‘for a rest’.

The picturesque cottage at the end of the lake stands on Duck Island, where injured birds are cared for. This featured in another diplomatic incident that we feature on our Royal London walk.  It occurred in the 17th century when the poet, St Evremond, was forced to flee France because of his attacks on Mazarin’s government.

Arriving in London he petitioned for an appointment at Court of King Charles 11. Although St. Evremond had powerful friends in London, Charles was reliant on the French for financial support and was somewhat reluctant to offend Mazarin. However, he came up with a suitable compromise by making St Evremond Governor of Duck Island.

The appointment saved him further appeals from St Evremond’s supporters, whilst at the same time amusing the French ambassador, who was able to reassure Mazarin on the real significance of St Evremond’s grandiose new title.