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Posts Tagged ‘Charles 1st’

Exploring Paternoster Square - London walks

Tuesday, September 29th, 2009

Standing in the middle of Paternoster Square and looking up at the mighty and glorious dome of St Paul’s Cathedral, you can’t help but draw breath in wonder and the splendid vision that unfolds around you.

Paternoster Square, which we cover on several of our London walks, is a lovely mix of old and new London.

On one side of the square is an arched gateway which is Temple Bar. It is the only one of London’s City gates to survive and gives you an idea of what London would have looked like when it was a walled and gated City.

Temple Bar used to stand at the junction of Strand and Fleet Street, a little to the west of its current location. For over two hundred years the daily life of London moved in and out through this gate.

It was built in 1672 and designed by Sir Christopher Wren, the same man who designed St Paul’s Cathedral, which towers over you as you stand in Paternoster Square.

It was the gate that separated the City’s of London and Westminster and the statues that you see on it are of James 1st and Anne of Denmark, plus Charles 1st and Charles 11.

From 1684 it was put to a somewhat gruesome use with parts of the bodies (usually the heads) of traitors being displayed on spikes above its arch. One enterprising tradesman actually set up a stall alongside Temple Bar and rented out telescopes for half a penny to enable people to get a closer look at their favourite or most infamous traitor!

In 1805, for the funeral of Admiral Horatio Lord Nelson,  Temple Bar was covered in black velvet as a tribute to the great Naval hero. Nelson, incidentally, is buried in St. Paul’s Cathedral.

But, by the 1870’s, London’s traffic was increasing and Temple bar was something of a hindrance to the smooth passage of the horse drawn. vehicles. Charles Dickens in his novel Bleak House refers to it as “that leaden headed old obstruction” and he pretty much reflected the attitude of London as a whole. Thus is 1878 it was taken down and moved to Theobald’s Park in Hertfordshire, the mansion of the brewing magnate Sir Henry Meux.

Over the next hundred years it was vandalised and allowed to fall into ruin. But, in 2003 when Pater Noster Square was being rebuilt, The Temple Bar Trust brought it back to central London and it was erected close to St Paul’s Cathedral, Sir Christopher Wren’s greatest legacy to the City of London.

The room over the gate can even be hired for private dinners by approaching the Chapter House of St. Paul’s Cathedral, which will be the subject of a later blog and which features, along with Temple Bar on our Historic City of London walks.

Walks of London - Charles 1st

Friday, June 26th, 2009

In an earlier post we told how on our Dickens London walks we mention the site of the Golden Cross Hotel which used to stand on the site now occupied by Trafalgar Square.

Today a statue of Charles 1st stands on the site of part of the old hotel and on our Westminster London walks we tell how Charles was beheaded not far from here outside the Banqueting House of Whitehall Palace.

On the night of April 13th, 1810, a man named Moxon, a porter employed at the Golden Cross Hotel, was walking across the road at Charing Cross when he stumbled over a heavy metal object.

He stooped to pick it up, and found that he was holding in his hand the sword, buckler and straps which had fallen from the equestrian statue of Charles I.

The newspapers of the day record that Moxon handed the articles over to a certain Mr. Eyre, a trunkmaker, who kept them for some time before he received instructions what to do with them from the Board of Green Cloth at St. James’s Palace.

After considerable delay the sword was replaced on the statue, from which it would appear that officialdom was in no hurry to complete the accoutrements of the ill-fated “Martyr” King, Jacobitism still being a vivid memory.

About 30 years later the sword disappeared entirely. A writer in a periodical of 185o comments : “When did the real sword, which but a few years back hung at the side of the
equestrian Statue of King, Charles at Charing Cross, disappear?

“That the sword was a real one of that period, I state Upon the authority of my learned friend, Sir Samuel Meyrick,who had ascertained the fact, and who pointed out to me its loss.”

A correspondent replied to this query as follows : “The sword disappeared about the time of the Coronation of her present Majesty [Queen Victoria], when some scaffolding was erected around the statue, which afforded great facilities for removing the rapier—for such it was; and I also understood that it found its way into the so-called museum of the notorious Captain D–, where in company with the wand of the Great Wizard of the North, and other well-known articles, it was carefully labelled and numbered, and a little account appended relating the circumstances of its acquisition and removal.”

To which the editor added a footnote, intending to be facetious : “The age of chivalry is certainly ‘past, otherwise the idea of disarming a statue would never have entered the head of any man of arms even in his most frolicsome mood.”

A new sword was placed in position, but so little did officialdom still care about Charles I that they actually affixed a modern one.

But this sword, too, disappeared — when, is not certain.

Light on this second theft, however, was given in 1924 by Miss Elizabeth Montizambert in her book, “Unnoticed London.”

She recorded that while she was in British Columbia she received a letter from a stranger who had read her book, giving information as to the disappearence of the sword.

The writer of the letter declared that he had “accidentally appropriated” the article.
In 1867, he said, he was a reporter on a newspaper, and in December of that year Her Majesty’s Theatre was destroyed by fire. He was in the crowd when it occurred, and realized that the pedestal of the Charles I statue was a good vantage ground from which to view the blaze.

He climbed the pedestal, using the sword for the purpose. The weapon broke off in his hands, and he was about to throw it away when someone begged it from him to keep as a souvenir.

Further inquiries failed to elicit the name of the man to whom the sword was given.

Thus it is possible that swords from the Charles 1 statue are still in existence somewhere.

The statue itself has had a curious history. It was modelled by Hubert Le Soeur, a Frenehman, who came to England about the year 1630, and was cast to the order of the Earl of Arundel, in 1639, “on a spot of ground hard by Covent Garden Church.”

It was put in place just before the outbreak of the Civil War. When hostilities began, the Roundheads had little use for the statue of the King, admirable though it was, and forthwith ordered it to be removed.

The Parliament sold it to a brazier, named Rivet, strictly on condition that it should be melted down or at least broken up. Rivet, who lived near Holborn Conduit, may have been a Royalist and disliked breaking up the effigy of his King. Or, believing that the Commonwealth regime could be only temporary, he may have thought there was a possibility of selling the statue in the future.

At all events he kept the statue intact. He buried it under ground, and proceeded to make knives and forks with bronze handles which he declared were relics of the statue.

He is said to have made a small fortune out of these knives and forks which were bought in large quantities both by Royalists, as a mark of affection for their King, and by the Roundheads as a memorial of their triumph over Charles.

After the Restoration, the statue reappeared and was bought by the Government and set up in 1671 on the Charing Cross site where it stands today and by which we pause on our Westminster London walks and ponder the history of this relic of old London.

Spencer Compton - Westminster Walks

Monday, June 8th, 2009

On our Westminster London walks we take in the Banqueting House, all that survives of Whitehall Palace. It was outside this building that Charles 1st was beheaded on a bitterly cold January morning in 1649.

However, in the middle of the road that runs alongside the Banqueting House there stands a statue to Spencer Compton,  8th Duke of Devonshire, whose story we love telling people who join us on our London walks in this fascinating area.

An able politician, Spencer Compton was Known as Lord Hartington in Politics, although he was also nicknamed Harty Tarty.

During his maiden speech to the House of Lords he yawned. He went on to become known as the man who yawned at his own speeches. With commendable self awareness, however, he did point out in his own defence “some of them were damned dull.”

He is said to be the only peer who dreamt he was addressing the House and woke up to find he was doing just that!

Once when a speaker in House of Lords was expounding on his own political achievements Hartington turned to his neighbour and said loudly “The proudest moment of my life was when my pig won first prize and Skipton Fair.”

However he was an able statesman and politician.

He became an M.P in 1857, was made Under- Secretary for War in 1863,Postmaster general 1868-70, and Chief Secretary of State for Ireland 1870

He was Leader of Liberal Party 1875 -80 and was offered the Premiership by Queen Victoria but declined it.

He was Secretary of State for India and resolved the Afghan crisis 1880-2.

After that he was twice more offered the Premiership but declined it on both occasions.

When we stop alongside his statue on our Westminster London walks people often notice the serpent on its plinth and ask what it is. It is in fact the crest of the Cavendish family, Dukes of Devonshire and is known as “The Cavendish Serpent.”