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The Nod Factor

Thursday, October 22nd, 2009

What is the Nod Factor?

Our City of London walks are packed with great little snippets of information that make a tour with us both delightful and inspiring. You will learn a great deal about the City on our tours and will learn lots of fascinating facts, as well as anecdotes to dine out on.

There are certain stories that we tell on our London walks that really do grip people’s imagination, and this is where the nod factor comes in to play.

On our walks around the heart of the old City we tell the story of where the word TIPS came from. This is one of our nod factor stories.

When we tell this story there is that moment when it registers with our audience and several people in the group will turn to the person next to them and nod at them as if to say “isn’t that interesting” or “I’m really glad I learnt that.

So the Nod factor is that moment of appreciation when participants on our London walks learn a little piece of information that really registers with them and which they truly appreciate our guides imarting to them.

Of course with such a wide variety of tours to choose from there are lots of nod factor moments on our London walks. They occur on our Jack the Ripper Tour when we tell people where the name Jack the Ripper came from. They happen on our Dickens Tours when we tell our group how Charles Dickens childhood workmate was a man by the name of Bob Fagin.

Indeed on every one of our Walks of London from Shakespeare to the ghosts of the old City there are at least four or five nod factor moments.

So now you know what the nod factor is, why not keep an eye open the next time you join us for a London walk?

Just watch for the moment when your guide imparts a fact and members of the group turn to each other and nod in appreciation.

Take A Walk With Dali in London.

Tuesday, October 6th, 2009

There’s More To This Than Meets the Eye.

Picking up where we left off yesterday we will continue our London walk through the Poetry and Dream wing of Tate Modern.

On a wall, a little way from Rene Margritte’s Reckless Sleeper there are two paintings by the artist who, in many ways, was the very embodiment of Surrealist painting Salvador Dali.

One of them is entitled Mountain Lake and Dali Painted it in 1938. It is a perfect idea of the mantra we often trot out on our City of London walks that, to really appreciate something, you must really look at it, not just see it.

As the title suggests it is a landscape of mountains and a lake. But on closer inspection you suddenly become aware that things are not quite as they seem, for it is a very somber work over which their hangs a feeling of unease and foreboding.

Your eye cannot help but be drawn to a large telephone that dominates the foreground of the landscape and which, in its massiveness, is out of all proportion to the rest of the painting.

A snail is crawling up the crutch that supports it. Dali often used snails in his art to symbolise vulnerability in that beneath the hard exterior shell there is a very soft, easily squashed body.

Furthermore the telephone is supported by a crutch and its wire is draped over another crutch after which the wire has been cut.

Looking at the lake you realise that it could be a fish and to its left is another rock that could be the fish’s tail, whereas other rocks that can be seen on the surface of the lake could be its scales.

There are also possible sexual connotations to the painting in that the lake could be phallic and representative of male genitalia, whereas the rock behind and to the right of the lake could be symbolic of female genitalia.

In fact Dali is addressing his own deepest subconsious and insecurities in Mountain Lake and we will look closer at these later today.

Trip Hammer - Art Walks London

Friday, October 2nd, 2009

Moving on in our quest to take a closer look at London on our Walks we move across the dialogue room in Energy and Process at Tate Modern and take a look at two huge slabs of steel that are balanced precariously, one on top of the other.

This is in fact an art work by Richard Serra and it is entitled Trip Hammer.

We do actually encounter another piece of Richard Serra’s work on our London walks around Liverpool Street Station.

He was responsible for one of the art works that grace (if that is the correct term) the Broadgate Development. This work is called Fulcrum and it consists of three huge sheets of metal that stand 55 feet high and lean against each other.

Fulcrum is what is known as “site specific art,” that is it is meant to exist at a specific location. As Richard Serra himself once said - when in the early 1980’s the New York authorities wanted to remove another of his site specific works. Titled Arc on the grounds that it restricted there passage through Federal Plaza in New York City -  “to remove the work is to destroy it.”

Trip Hammer, on display in the Energy and Process wing of Tate Modern, is about the sense of unease and anxiety that it instills in the spectator.

Luckily there is a protective bar around it to protect the work. But it’s also there to protect us from the work, because Trip Hammer consists of two delicately balanced pieces of industrial steel that are kept upright by their sheer weight and by minimal contact with the wall behind.

Both pieces of steel are 2.6 meters by 1.3 meters and the top one balances precariously on an edge that is just 5cm across.

It has minimal contact with the wall behind, in fact it just touches it ever so lightly. The two pieces aren’t fixed together in any way, it is their sheer weight, coupled with the force of gravity, that keeps them upright.

In other words it wouldn’t take much to topple them and the fact that they could fall at any moment makes us aware of the space we’re standing  in relation them.

So with Trip Hammer we have an artwork that combines classical simplicity with a sense of  nervous energy, some of which may well be coming from us as we contemplate the possibility that it could, in theory, fall on us at any moment!

Our next Walk of Art posting will look a little closer at this Richard Serra piece and will tell you a little bit about the artist who created it.

Of course you are very welcome to join us on one of our City of London walks or even on one of our Shakespeare London walking tours that takes in the area of Bankside where Tate Modern stands.

Dynamic Suprematism - Art Walks London

Thursday, October 1st, 2009

Art on Our London walks.

It’s amazing how many times art turns up on our Walks in London. It might be a little bit of street furniture or an entire dummy window painted to resemble a family sitting room such as the one encountered on our City of London walks.

Earlier today we began looking at a work in the Energy and Process wing of Tate Modern that was painted by the Russian artist Kasimir Malevich entitled Dynamic Suprematism.

We explained how at first glance it might seem like just a group of geometric objects, such as triangles and rectangles and crosses. However, we then explained how Malevich intended the viewing of his work to be a spiritual experience for the spectator.

In that respect Dynamic Suprematism is very much a spiritual and mystical painting. Try as you might, there is nothing for your eyes to actually focus on in the work. The shapes themselves are slightly tilted - pushing and pulling against each other.  Shapes are painted over shapes or else balanced, almost precariously, on top of each other - so you actually do get a sense of movement but your eye just can’t rest on it nor can they focus on any one part of the painting.

In essence that is the meaning behind Dynamic Suprematism, for Malevich wants us to stop thinking about the material of the painting and, instead, hewants us to look into the painting. As Malevich himself once said “art should be liberated from the dead weight of the material world.”

When it was first displayed the painting caused a sensation. It is still a very radical piece, even by today’s standards, so you can imagine the effect it had on a Russia that was used to high art and religious iconography.

We’ll continue with this theme later today, in the meantime why not check out one of  our Shakespeare Walks of London that take in the south side of the River Thames and after which you can, if you wish, pay a visit to Tate Modern.

You can also join us on one of our London Art Walks.

London walks Quiz - The Answers

Thursday, September 17th, 2009

Yesterday we set you a little quiz that consisted of questions regarding topics that come up on our various London walks.

From the Jack the Ripper London walk.

1. How many victims is it believed that Jack the Ripper had?

The general consensus, which it has to be said is by no means certain is that Jack the Ripper had five victims.

2. In which part of London did the Jack the Ripper murders occur?

Several of our East End of London walks cover the quarter of London where the murders occurred. The murders occurred in the districts of Spitalfields and Whitechapel, with one murder, that of Catharine Eddowes, the fourth victim taking place in the City of London.

3. Can you name one of the detectives who investigated the crimes?

There are so many that you could choose from but the man in charge of the on the ground investigation was Inspector Abberline. He incidentally was the person upon the character of Johnny Depp in the film From Hell was very loosely based.

If you would like to experience one of our Jack the Ripper London walks, they take place seven chilling nights a week at 7pm

From the Dickens London walks.

1. What was Charles Dickens first major work?

The first major work by Dickens was Pickwick Papers.

2. Which book was he working on when he died in 1870?

Dickens died suddenly in June 1870 whilst he was working on The Mystery of Edwin Drood.

3. What was the name of the magistrate before whom Oliver Twist appeared?

Having been taken for pick-pocketing on Clerkenwell Green Oliver appears before Mr Fang at Hatton Garden Police Court.

From our City of London walks.

1. Where is Christ’s Hospital School now located?

Close to St. Paul’s there is a blue plaque on the wall of what is now Merrill Lynch that marks what was the site of Christ’s Hospital School. However in the 1890’s the school moved to its current location at Horsham.

2. What was Sir Christopher Wren’s first architectural commission?

Wren’s first architectural commission came about as a result of nepotism. His uncle, who was Bishop of Ely commissioned him to design the chapel at Pemroke College in Cambridge in 1663. This was followed in 1664 by a commission to design the Sheldonian Theatre in Oxford.

3. Which London market became Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter films?

Leadenhall Market, London’s most beautiful Victorian market was used for Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter films.

So there you have it. A handful of questions that really demonstrate the sheer breadth and variety of subjects and facts that you can learn on one of our acclaimed London walks.

A quick Quiz from our London walks

Wednesday, September 16th, 2009

Are you in the mood to get quizicle about our various London walks?

One of the intriguing aspects of our recent group bookings on the various London walks that we offer is that a number of offices have been asking us to end the tour with a quiz in a pub or a restaurant.

It really does make a fun ending to a walking tour of London to sit down and be asked a series of questions on the tour that you have just taken.

So, with that in mind, tonight’s blog will take the form of a quiz that you can try on your own and see if you can answer the questions.

All the questions relate to places and people that are seen and discussed on our various Walks in London so, without further a do, why not engage those little grey cells and let’s launch the great Discovery Walks London test.

From the Jack the Ripper Tour.

1. How many victims is it believed that Jack the Ripper had?

2. In which part of London did the Jack the Ripper murders occur?

3. Can you name one of the detectives who investigated the crimes?

From the Dickens London walking tour.

1. What was Charles Dickens first major work?

2. Which book was he working on when he died in 1870?

3. What was the name of the magistrate before whom Oliver Twist appeared?

From our City of London walks.

1. Where is Christ’s Hospital School now located?

2. What was Sir Christopher Wren’s first architectural commission?

3. Which London market became Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter films?

The quiz, incidentally, is purely for fun! You can find the answers to all these questions on our various blog postings.

Of course you can also find the answers by joining us on one of our many and varied London walks that cover all the subjects and the topics featured in the great Discovery Tours London Quiz.

Exploring Wren’s London on Our Walks

Monday, September 14th, 2009

In our earlier blog we looked at how many of the streets we see on our London walks were the work of one of London’s most prolific architects, Sir Christopher Wren.

Wren’s opportunity to transform the London skyline came about in September 1666 when the Great Fire of London destroyed virtually all the medieval City.

With the embers of the fire still smouldering, Sir Christopher Wren approached King Charles 11 and presented him with a comprehensive plan to rebuild the City on a grid-pattern that would consist of spacious streets, squares and elegant piazzas.

In truth, since the plan ignored the property rights of all those who had lost buildings in the Great Fire of London it had little chance of ever becoming a reality.

What it did do, however, was persuade the king that this enthusiastic young man was just the person to supervise those parts of the necessary rebuilding that could be undertaken by the Crown and the public authorities.

Wren was, therefore, made one of the three Royal Commissioners for the rebuilding and was employed almost continuously from then until his retirement in 1718.

You can see evidence of his genius on so many of our London walks. From the mighty splendour of St Paul’s Cathedral, to the graceful simplicity of his lesser known churches such as St Anne and St Agnes in Gresham Street.

According to the architect Sir Edwin Lutyens, commenting on Wren’s achievement in 1932, ” There is no finer monument to his genius than the character that he gave London…”

Indeed, as Wren himself observed “architecture aims at eternity” and his vision is still apparent to us today as we make our way around the streets of the City on our London walks.

He designed 51 City Churches, four Royal palaces, Royal Hospitals at Chelsea and Greenwich, not to mention numerous minor commissions both within and without London.

When he died in 1723 at the ripe old age of 91 he had transformed London and was, fittingly buried in the crypt of his greatest achievement, St. Paul’s Cathedral beneath a simple black slab that urges “If you require a monument look about you..”

Those who join us on our City of London walks will see that it is not just a reference to St Paul’s Cathedral but to his graceful church towers that still dot the London skyline.

Hell Fire Club Founded in London.

Sunday, August 23rd, 2009

On our City of London walks we thread our way through a warren on back alleyways that line Cornhill and stand before the George and Vulture, a lovely old Dining establishment where Sir Francis Dashwood founded his notoriously Nefarious Hell Fire Club.

It gives us the chance to tell a little of the story of this band of gentlemen on our Historical London walks. Although it was at the George and Vulture that they were founded it is with the village of West Wycombe that they are most associated.

West Wycombe is a delightful, though tiny, village, comprised of a single high street of timber and flint buildings, on the outskirts of which sits the magnificent seat of the Dashwood family, the beautifully Palladian West Wycombe Park.

On the summit of the steep conical hill across the road from the house, is the immense Dashwood Mausoleum, behind which towers the strange golden ball that sits uneasily atop the church of St Lawrence. Meanwhile, hewn out of the hillside beneath are a series of caves, reached via an entrance that has been fashioned to resemble a gothic church and which adds to the overall ambiance of eccentricity with which the overall estate seems imbued.

The person responsible for all this was Sir Francis Dashwood (1708-1781), a man whose name has become a byword for hedonistic debauchery, and who is today best remembered as a leading light in the most infamous of all the so-called “Hell Fire” clubs.

These secret societies had become popular with wealthy young aristocrats in the first half of the 18th century and in 1721 it was considered to necessary to pass a Royal edict condemning “Young People who meet together in the most impious and blasphemous manner.. and corrupt the minds and morals of one another”.

Ironically, Dashwood’s organisation, which is now perhaps the only one to be universally remembered, and which operated between the 1740’s and 1760’s, never actually called itself the ‘Hell-Fire-Club’, preferring instead to be known as the “Knights of St Francis”.

John Wilkes (1725 – 1797), the radical politician, and an enthusiastic member, described their gatherings as “A set of worthy, jolly fellows, happy disciples of Venus and Bacchus, got together to celebrate women in wine”.

The select central core of just thirteen  “apostles”, led by Sir Francis Dashwood, included Lord Sandwich, John Wilkes, the painter William Hogarth, poets Charles Churchill, Robert Lloyd and Paul Whitehead, whilst American, Benjamin Franklin, was reputed to have been an occasional visitor.

Although their early meetings probably took place at the homes of various members, including West Wycombe Park, Sir Francis began casting around for a base that would provide the necessary seclusion for the clubs activities.

He settled on the ruins of the old Cistercian abbey at Medmenham, six miles from West Wycombe, which he restored to opulent splendour and inscribed above archway over the entrance the clubs motto Fay ce que voudras (Do as you wish).  Thereafter the society would also be known as “The Monks of Medmenham”.

Despite the fact that these self -styled monks certainly indulged in a goodly amount of sexual frolicking, and did include mock religious services in their rituals, there is no evidence to suggest that, as has been frequently claimed, they ever practiced Satanism.

The rumour that they did, was probably begun by their enemies in the late 18th Century, and gathered momentum throughout the 19th and 20th Centuries.

There is, however, a delightful, though spurious, tale that at one of the meetings, John Wilkes concealed a baboon, which he had dressed as the Devil, in a chest beneath his seat.

At an appropriate moment, he jerked a cord which opened the chest and the creature jumped onto Lord Sandwiches shoulders who, believing that he had conjured up the Devil, cried out “Spare me gracious Devil: spare a wretch who never was sincerely your servant. I sinned only from vanity of being in the fashion; thou knowest I never have been half so wicked as I pretended: never have been able to commit the thousandth part of the vices which I boasted of…”.

The animosity felt by Lord Sandwich for John Wilkes would lead him to pursue a vendetta against him that would see Wilkes expelled from the House of Commons and ultimately, lead to his being jailed for three years.

At the height of the Wilkes scandal, Sandwich is supposed to have exclaimed at him, “Upon my soul Wilkes, I don’t know whether you’ll die upon the gallows or of the pox” “That depends, my lord,” replied Wilkes “on whether I first embrace your lordships principles or your lordships mistresses”.

But their feud also dragged in other members, including Sir Francis himself and, by 1766, he had effectively disbanded the Knights of St Francis” and thereafter they would be nothing more than a vague, albeit infamous memory, around whom all manner of salacious gossip would gather.

London Gates On Our Walks.

Thursday, July 30th, 2009

On our City of London walks we wander through streets with names such as Bishopsgate, Aldgate and Newgate Street. Every so often we encounter plaques, such as one on the wall of the Old Bailey which tells passersby that this was the site of Newgate Demolished in 1780.

Other streets and places encountered on our London walks also remember the long vanished gates of London. Our Jack the Ripper Tour, for example starts at Aldgate East Underground Station, which remembers Aldgate, the eastern gate into the City of London.

These gates remember the long ago days when a wall encircled the entire City of London and people had to Walk in and out of these gates to gain admission to the capital or to leave it behind. Each of these gates has a tale (several have many tales to tell) of the people and events that were connected with them.

Those who join our historical City of London walks learn about these  tales.

For example we tell how on July 30th, 1760 three old London gates  -  those of Cripplegate, Aldgate, and Ludgate - were sold to a Mr. Blagden, a carpenter, of Coleman Street, City, for a total of £416 10s.

He gave an undertaking to remove the gates and the “rubbish” connected therewith, by the end of September.

The contract was carried out, and the autumn of that year saw the end of all the London gates except Newgate.

Newgate survived for another twenty years, when it was demolished by rioters.

These gates, of course, were not the original barriers of London. They had been renewed at various times.

The earliest gate in the walls of the City was Aldgate, or Eldgate as it was called in Saxon times.

This was hastily constructed to prevent invaders entering the City from the great Essex road.

During the war between King John and the barons it, was through this gate that the citizens of London let in the latter.

It suffered a good deal in the early part of the 13th century through civil wars,and the wood was replaced by stone.

It existed until the time of Elizabeth 1st, when a more ornamental one was put up in its place. This was the one sold in 1760.

Aldgate, being the nearest point in the City to the East Coast, was assaulted more than any other of the gates of London.

In 1471 Falconbridge, who had raised a force of seamen in Essex and Kent, came up the Thames with his ships and anchored near the Tower. The Mayor and Aldermen of the City fortified the Thames shore. Finding that London was not to be approached from the south side, the invaders attacked Aldgate with 5000 men.

The citizens dropped the portcullis of the gate, and cut off many of the assailants. When Earl Rivers and the Constable of the Tower arrived with reinforcements, London’s citizens counter-attacked and drove the besiegers as far as Stratford.

Aldgate was acquired from Blagden, the carpenter, by a Mr. Mussell of Bethnal Green, who had the gate rebuilt on the north side of his mansion, which was afterwards named Aldgate.

Dick Whittington - London walks

Wednesday, July 29th, 2009

On our London walks that cover the Eastern section of the City we pause outside the church of St Michael Paternoster Royal. It was inside this church that Dick Whittington, London’s most famous Lord Mayor, was buried - albeit the site of his grave is now unknown. His mansion was in the narrow street that runs alongside the church.

The name of Dick Whittington is universally famous and he features on many of our London walks. But who exactly was he and what is the story behind the legend of Dick Whittington and his cat?

The legend is one of England’s most famous folk tales, and there is evidence to suggest that the pantomime version of the story, that still delights audiences today, was being played in much the same format in the 17th century.

Dick was a poor boy who lived in the days of Edward 111 and who came to London expecting to find the streets “paved with gold”. Unfortunately, the best he could manage was employment as a scullion in the Kitchen of a wealthy merchant, Mr Fitzwarren.

Bullied by the cook, and plagued by the mice and rats that infested his attic, the poor lad was thoroughly miserable. But, hoping to deal at least with the latter of his problems, he bought himself a cat, which soon rid his room of the troublesome furry pests.

When Mr Fitzwarren offered his servants a stake in a cargo of merchandise that was bound for Barbary, Dick had nothing to venture but his cat. Fortunately his employer accepted the feline investment, and the ship set sail. But no sooner had it done so, than the cook’s harassment intensified, causing Dick to run away. He had gone as far as Holloway when, exhausted and footsore with the uphill trek out of London, he sat on a stone to rest his weary legs.

As he was catching his breath, the bells of Bow Church began to chime in the valley below, and Dick fancied that he heard them speak, urging him:

Turn again Whittington

Thrice Lord Mayor of London.

Intrigued, he decided to go back to Mr Fitzwarren’s house, where he discovered that the ship had returned, and with it had come a change in his fortunes.

Apparently the Captain of the vessel had arrived in Barbary to find the King’s Palace overrun with rats. He loaned him Dick’s cat, which quickly dispatched the troublesome vermin, whereupon the grateful monarch purchased the entire cargo for a fantastical sum of money and paid ten times the amount again, to buy Dick’s cat.

Thereafter, Dick Whittington’s fortunes went from strength to strength. He married his master’s daughter Alice and prospered immensely, crowning his achievements by becoming, just as the bells had foretold, three times Lord Mayor of London.

The historical Richard Whittington (1358-1423) was the youngest son of Sir William Whittington, a wealthy Gloucestershire Squire. By his early thirties he was a successful London mercer and had married Alice, the daughter of Sir Ivo Fitzwaryn. By the 1390’s he was a master mercer, employing five apprentices and supplying expensive silks, cloth and textiles to the court of Richard 11. He had also begun loaning money to the Royal Exchequer and, when the mayor of London died in 1397, the King showed his gratitude by appointing Whittington to the post. The citizens of London appear to have been more than satisfied by this, since the following year they re-elected him. When Henry 1V deposed Richard 11 in 1399, Whittington continued to prosper and such was his importance a source of ready cash to the Crown that, by the end of Henry’s reign, he had lent a total of £21,562. Since usury was illegal at the time, it seems that Whittington’s only profit from these loans was the currying of Royal favour. He became mayor twice more, in 1406 and 1419, and served as MP for London in 1416.

There is still debate as to the nature of the historical Richard Whittington’s cat. The oft quoted theories that Whittington owed much of his wealth to the coal trade and that colliers were then known as “cats”, or that he had invented the ship known as a “cat” in which coal was transported in the 18th century, are ingenious though unlikely and, in truth, nobody really knows why his name became associated with a cat, although the connection was certainly established by Elizabethan times.

Alice Whittington pre-deceased her husband and, since they had no children, when he died in 1423, his fortune went to benefit his fellow citizens and to maintain the large number of charities that he had begun during his lifetime.

As mentioned earlier our Eastern City of  London walks include the church of St Michael Pater Noster, a church that Whittington himself had had rebuilt in 1409. He  also founded the College of St Spirit and St Mary, from which College Hill next to the church takes its name.

When Whittington died in 1423 he was buried in the church. However, during the reign of Edward V1 the Rector, Thomas Mountain, opened his tomb anticipating vast treasure. Finding none he ripped off the corpses leaden sheet in a fit of pique! When Mary 1st came to the throne the cantankerous cleric was removed from office and Whittington’s remains were re-shrouded, although his whereabouts are no longer known.