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Posts Tagged ‘Southwark’

Now that’s what I call a London walk!

Friday, November 27th, 2009

Have you ever found yourself spoilt for choice wondering which London Walking Tour is the one for you? It might sound a strange question but we do often get phone calls from people who find themselves spoilt for choice over exactly which one of our multitude of tours they should take.

Of course it very much depends on your interests. A good starter tour is perhaps our popular Secret City London walk which shows you some of the wonderful places at the heart of the old city of London. This really shows you how this great City really does hide its treasures from prying eyes and makes it all the more wonderful to discover the hidden places that lie tucked away behind the busy main roads.

Your interests may be more towards the literary? No problem you can explore the streets of Charles Dickens London on the several different Dickens walks that we offer. Or you can explore the district of Southwark on the south side of the River Thames, across the river from St Paul’s Cathedral, on one of our Shakespeare’s London walks.

If you interests are more towards the sinister aspects of London’s history then fear not (or should that be start to fear!) as we offer a regular Jack the Ripper Tour of London that departs seven chilling nights a week at 7pm. This is what we really call a London walk. It involves walking old, historic streets that have changed little since 1888 when Jack the Ripper stalked their shadows. It includes a cracking murder murder mystery that will keep you guessing with each twist and turn of both the narrative and the streets. But it also provides a glimpse of the fascinating social history of one of London’s most multi cultural districts.  All in all it is the perfect tour of London.

So when you are looking at our London walks and trying to figure out which one you should take, just read our detailed descriptions and see for yourself why the old saying “when a man is tired of London he is tired of life” still holds true today.

The Blitz in London - walks around the bomb sites

Sunday, August 9th, 2009

We continue our story of how in December 1940 the skies over the City were lit up as fire reigned down on the streets and old buildings of London.

Walks that take in the Blitz give you the opportunity to really get the feel of what it was like to live through the terror of the bombs falling across the city.

Our London walks make an ideal opportunity to explore the places where the damage was greatest.

Yesterday’s blog told of the preparations made by the german bomb crews for the Blitz. In today’s blog we join Londoners as dusk falls over the city of London and they prepare to walk home oblivious to the fact that their city is about to be drastically altered.

Dusk fell over southern England at 5.30 on the evening of the 29th. The Black-out (the wartime ban on lights showing from buildings) began at 5.26pm.

By this time Hauptmann Aschenbrenner was already on his way.
Aschenbrenner’s squadron had received orders for the attack on ‘LOGE’ (codename for London) at 12.30pm and took off from Vannes at 4.30pm.

KG 100 circled over the Gulf of St Malo and Aschenbrenner reported at 5.20pm that he had locked into Anton Beam over Cherbourg with an estimated forty-eight minutes to target.

The bombers headed for the English coast, crossing it near Bognor Regis at 5.47pm. On the English side of the Channel, KG 100 was picked up at 5.15pm by Ventnor radar station, Isle of Wight, as the

Heinkels assembled in battle formation. RAF Fighter Com¬mand HQ at Stanmore, Middlesex, was informed and in turn alerted 11 Group, Fighter Command at sector control Uxbridge. Uxbridge in turn alerted sector airfields at Tang- mere (Kent), Kenley (Surrey) and Gravesend (Kent) to stand by.

As Aschenbrenner crossed the coast, 219 Squadron, Tangmere, scrambled its Beaufighter night fighters (equipped with Al MK IV cockpit radar). These, however, failed to make contact with the raiders.

At 5.58pm Aschenbrenner’s Heinkel passed over Mitcham, Surrey, and the first buzzer, ‘ten miles to target’, sounded in his cockpit.

London was as yet unaware of the great airfleet heading towards it.

At 5.26pm the bells of St Bride’s church, Fleet Street (most beautiful of Wren’s City churches which is covered on our historic London walks) sounded out at the end of service. It was the last time the bells would be heard for seventeen years.

At 5.58pm, when the flight line of the incoming aircraft made it clear they were heading straight for London, Air Marshal ‘Sholto’ Douglas (Fighter Command Operations Room, Stanmore) called Home Office Fire Control Room (Commander Firebrace) with the news that ‘a large formation’ was on its way to London and, seven minutes later, the sirens began to moan out along the South London approaches.

As the sirens sounded to the south, George Garwood, in charge of the permanent staff of St Paul’s Cathedral Fire Watch, received a phone call from the roof informing him of the alert.

He made ready to go upstairs, but first received a second call telling him of IBs falling across the river in Southwark.

By the time Mr Garwood had climbed to the rooftop, IBs were falling all round in heavy showers and bouncing off the dome of the cathedral.

With cloud at 4,500 feet all over southern England and London itself, Aschenbrenner could not see his target and was flying blind.

At 6.08pm the second buzzer in his cockpit sounded out and Aschenbrenner’s bombardier released his deadly cargo.

The IBs straddled Guy’s Hospital, Southwark, London Bridge Railway Station and the River Thames. They were a thousand yards short of the target — the Bank of England — though in the circumstances they had achieved remarkable accuracy.

Bombs away, Aschenbrenner ascended a few thousand feet to circle and observe the rest of his squadron’s performance. The following bombers achieved even greater accuracy, hitting areas around St Paul’s, Moorgate just north of the Bank, and the area around the Tower of London.
On the ground at Guy’s Hospital, surgeons were at work in a temporary operating theatre.

The IBs pierced the roof of the theatre and the surgeons ordered nurses to douse them with sand while continuing the operation.

Outside the hospital, in nearby Tooley Street, Mrs Florence Welsh was closing down her mobile tea canteen for the night. Suddenly the whole street was lit by the bright flare of burning incendiaries. Mrs Welsh resignedly filled up her water boiler to make tea and ’stood by to receive firemen’. She would have a long night ahead of her.

On our next London walks through the Blitz blog we will tell of the resilience with which Londoners faced their peril.

Walking Across London Bridge

Wednesday, June 17th, 2009

On several of our London walks we take participants across London Bridge and pause at the centre for the wonderful view downriver of Tower Bridge and Docklands beyond.

Invariably one of the participants will ask the guide about the song “London Bridge is Falling Down” and ask where it comes from.

It is one of those great questions that we await with eager anticipation because it is a typical example of the sort of in depth, quirky information that you can look forward  on our London Walking Tours.

But before we go in to the origins of the rhyme it might help if we take a little look at the immediate area around the Bridge.

The Borough of Southwark, London’s first suburb, lies immediately south of London Bridge.

It developed as a result of the river crossing at the bridge. Over the centuries Southwark performed many functions for the city, but above all it was the entertainment district, the home of the great Elizabethan and Jacobean theatres — the Globe, the Rose, the Hope and the Swan.

However, Southwark existed for many centuries before the arrival of the theatres.

The first London Bridge was built by the Romans, probably in about AD 100 and a little further down river from the present bridge.

Archaeologists have discovered a massive timber structure on the north shore which is believed to be the Roman bridgehead.

There was certainly a bridge here in the ninth century as the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle tells us of a woman accused of witchcraft who was thrown off it.

During the first thousand years the bridges here were wooden structures which frequently collapsed or were destroyed in war.

The most spectacular destruction of the bridge gave rise to the children’s song ‘London Bridge is Falling Down’.

In 1014 King Olaf of Norway, an ally of the English King Aethelred, who was besieged in the City of London, sailed his Viking longships up the river and tied ropes to the wooden bridge piers.

Sailing back down river again, Olaf pulled the bridge and the Danish Viking army on it into the river.

This feat was commemorated by the Icelandic poet Ottar Svarte in the thirteenth century King Olaf’s Saga:

London Bridge is broken down
Gold is won and bright renown.
Shields resounding
War horns sounding
Hi ldur shouting in the din
Arrows singing
Mail coats ringing
Odin makes our Olaf win!

So those are the origins of the rhyme. But London Bridge’s history is in its own right, extremely fascinating and on our Riverside London walks we present the bridge from all angles and tell you about its history from all ages.

The first stone bridge was built here by Peter of Colechurch in 1176. By 1201, there are references to houses on the bridge; in the centre was a chapel dedicated to St Thomas a Becket. Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, was murdered in his own cathedral in 1170, possibly at the instigation of King Henry II.

Shortly afterwards Becket was canonized and became the first Londoner to achieve sainthood. The pilgrim¬age to his shrine at Canterbury was particularly popular with Londoners and began with prayers at his chapel on the bridge.

At the southern end of the bridge was the gate (the ‘Sutheringe Gewerke’ in Old English) which gave its name to the suburb — Southwark. The gate was also used to display the heads of ‘traitors’, such as William Wallace, Jack Cade, Sir Thomas More and Bishop Fisher.

Between 1758-62 the houses were removed from the bridge and between 1823-31 a new bridge designed by Sir John Rennie was erected. Rennie’s bridge was not particularly notable in architectural terms, being a simple five arch stone bridge.

In the 1960s increased traffic flow had caused some subsidence of the bridge and it was decided to build a new and wider one. Rennie’s bridge was sold to the McCullough Oil Corporation for £1,000,000 and transported to Lake Havasu City, Arizona, USA, in 1967-72.

The present wider bridge was constructed around the old bridge in order not to interrupt the flow of traffic.

So there in a nutshell is a brief history of one of London’s alluring locations. It is testimony to the fascinating snippets of information that you get to hear on our varioue London walks that people offten say to us “I’ve crossed this bridge every day for years and I’ve never once thought about its history.”

But that is what our Walks in London are all about. We take the everyday, some might even say mundane, aspects of London, and introduce our walkers to the rich tapestry of the past.