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Secret London walks

Saturday, May 30th, 2009

Have you ever wondered what a particular building in London is? On our City of London walks we stroll along London Wall and people often look up at all the high rise blocks that surround them.

One building that invariably catches peoples attention is the building on the junction of Wood Street and London Wall.

The building itself is pretty striking with its glass elevators and glass panels. But the feature that really attracts the attention of those on our London walks is the number of blue and red funnels that are clustered around the buildings exterior.

We often ask our walkers to see if they can guess what they are and we get some intriguing replies. Some say that they might be something to do with the teletubbies! Others wonder if there is a ship hidden in the basement.

The truth is a little bit more mundane though, typical of the sort of things we chat about on our walks of London, at the same time somewhat intriguing.

Located in the building is a telephone exchange and these blue and red funnels are, in fact, simply a part of the cooling mechanism for the exchange. The blue funnels take in the cold air for circulating and cooling, the red funnels pump out the hot air.

So next time you drive along London Wall, or wander along it in the company of a guide on one of our London walks, keep an eye out for these eye-catching curiosities, nudge the person next to you, and whisper knowlingy “do you know what those are”?

Jack the Ripper - London walks

Friday, May 29th, 2009

One of the questions we frequently get asked on our Jack the Ripper London walks is “would Jack the Ripper be caught if he were murdering today?”

The consensus amongst the participants on our London walks is that modern forensics and detecting methods would most certainly result in his apprehension.

It has to be said that if he were to murder in the same district (i.e. the relatively small geographic area of Spitalfields and Whitechapel) then the chances are that he would be caught.

However, changes to the streets and layout of the district would probably play a more prominent role in his apprehension than any modern innovations in forensics or detection.

The streets have changed a great deal. On our Jack the Ripper London walks we take participants through some of the old backstreets that have remained relatively unchanged since Jack the Ripper stalked them.

It was these unlit, narrow alleyways that provided the perfect location for Jack the Ripper to carry out his murderous reign of terror.

In 1888 there were hundreds of these tiny alleyways and passageways snaking through the district. Each one of them was well known to the local prostitutes that Jack the Ripper chose as his victims. These ladies knew the perfect places to take their clients to where they would be safe from interruption. In other words it was they, not their killer who, inadvertently, chose their murder sites. As one senior detective put it “it’s not as if he has to wait for his chance, those woman make that chance for him.”

Furthermore, Jack the Ripper only ever left one clue behind, a piece of bloody apron taken from the body of one of his victims that he used to clean his hands and then discarded in a doorway.

It has to be said that this wasn’t much of a clue. Even today, if the police had no clues to go on they would be hard pushed to find a killer who was not known to his victims and who was working alone.

It could be argued that DNA or fingerprinting would lead the police to him today. But in order for that to happen they would have to have his DNA or his fingerprints on record to match them.

If not the modern police would be in, more or less, the same situation as their Victorian counterparts.

All that they could do in 1888 was flood the area with police officers and hope that, the next time Jack the Ripper struck, their would be a policeman around to catch him. But the killer’s luck held, that never happened and, in consequence, Jack the Ripper evaded capture.

All this makes a great deal of sense when you explore the streets where the murders took place on our Jack the Ripper London walks.

Shakespearean Wanderings

Friday, May 15th, 2009

Shakespeare’s London

As our Shakespeare’s London walks make their way along Park Street - on the south side of the River Thames from St. Paul’s Cathedral - we pass an alley called Rose Alley. On an office building nearby there is a blue plaque marking the site of the Rose Playhouse “The first Elizabethan Theatre on Bankside.”

In 1587 Philip Henslow,a carpenter turned theatrical impresario,purchased a plot of land on this site. Today just the aforementioned nondescript alleyway and blue plaque commemorate it, although its remains were re-discovered in 1989 and are now preserved under the unsightly office block.

Indeed, there is little on the site today to suggest that this is perhaps one of the most important theatrical sites in the world. Why? Because it was on this spot in 1592 that Shakespeare emerged from his so-called “lost years” and stepped into the spotlight of documented history as a playwright whose plays were beginning to pull in the audiences as well as if not better than the more established University educated playwrights such as Robert Greene, of whom more later.

Philip Henslowe was a business man to whom the takings of the various plays he staged were important. In early 1592 he had spent the considerable sum of £105 (almost £50,000 by today’s values) renovating the Rose Playhouse. We know this because he kept detailed records of his income and expenditure.

According to his diary, now preserved at Dulwich College, his newly refurbished theatre re-opened on 19th February 1592 with Robert Greene’s Friar Bacon and Friar Bungay. The attendance was poor and Henslowe’s share of the takings was a measly 17 shillings and thrupence, the equivalent of 86 pence today.

Two days later another Robert Greene play Orlando fared even worse and brought in just 16 shillings and 6 pence. Things improved slightly on the 26th February when Marlowes The Jew of Malta brought in 50 shillings.

But then, on the 3rd March 1592, Henslowe records that he staged a play called Harry the sixth.

This play broke box office records and netted him 3 pounds 16 shillings and 8 pence, close to £2,000 in today’s money. Three days later another performance of the same play brought in £3, whereas another Robert Greene play A Looking Glass For London and England made just 7 shillings.

In all Henslowe would stage Henry V1 fourteen times in the next three months and would make some £30 in the process.

And we know today, although the audience then probably didn’t know - and to be honest even if they had of known they probably wouldn’t have cared much - that the plays author was William Shakespeare.

So by 1592 Shakespeare’s talent as a writer had seen him trounce some of the more established playwrights at the box office, and for Robert Greene at least the prospect of a man who he apparently considered to be an ill educated country bumpkin daring to win better audiences than him was, quite simply, too much.

Robert Greene’s is a sad story. He was an educated man who had attained a Masters degree from Cambridge University. He had a wife and a son, but he spent her inheritance and then abandoned both of them.

By 1592 he had sunk as low as any man of letters could. He was eeking out an existence churning out pamphlets on the cardsharps, the bawdy houses and the brothels of low-life London, the London that he knew only too well. He had a mistress who bore him another son and without any apparent sense of irony the destitute Greene named the infant Fortunatus.

By August 1592 Greene health was failing rapidly and he would have found himself dying in the gutter had it not been for the charity of Mr and Mrs Isam, a poverty stricken shoemaker and his wife, who took Greene together with his mistress and infant son into their lice ridden hovel here on Dowgate - a stones throw from St Paul’s Catehdral- and a thoroughfare that we cover on several of our historical City of London walks.

On June 11th 1592, following a riot of the apprentices at one of the Southwark theatres. The authorities reacted by ordering the closure of the theatres. The actors left London and went on tour around the country.

Greene though lay dying on his lice-ridden bed of straw. His thoughts turned bitterly to those actors who were off in the provinces performing his plays and profiting from his creations.

As the resentment boiled within him he focussed it on one man in particular. The young upstart who, without the benefit of a university education, had dared to trounce him at the box office.

Greene penned a letter, which was intended for Christopher Marlow, Thomas Nash and George Peel, fellow playwrights. In that letter he made a blistering attack on William Shakespeare. It read:-

Base minded men all three of you, if by my misery you be not warned. For unto non of you sought those burrs to cleave those puppets that spake from our mouths. Those antics garnished in our colours. Yes. Trust them not, for there is an upstart crow beautified with our feathers,that with his tiger’s heart wrapped in a player’s hide, supposes that he is as well able to bombast out a blank verse as the best of you. And being an absolute Johannes Factotum is in his conceipt the only Shakescene in the country.

This is just one of the many anecdotes about the immortal Bard that you will hear on our Shakespeare in London walks.

Magical London walks

Monday, May 11th, 2009

As well as conducting a wide range of fascinating London walks Richard Jones is also an accomplished magician who is a Member of the prestigious Magic Circle, the world’s leading society for Magicians. He holds the rank of Associate of the Inner Magic Circle with Silver Star, the penultimate honour the Society can bestow upon its members.

Ever the innovator on the London walks scene, Richard was the first person to incorporate magic into his tours and began performing amazing feats of mind reading and psychic recreations on his haunted London walks in 1992.

Over the next few days we will be taking you on a breathtaking journey through the history of magic, telling its story from its ancient origins to its modern popularity on television and in theatres. It is a fascinating story and the in depth account you will read of it is typical of the amount of detail we include in and the amount of knowledge we bring to all our London walks.

A Magical History Tour.

For us, living in the 21st century, awe    and wonderment have been largely eroded by the advances of science. But our distant ancestors inhabited a fearsome and hostile world.

As they struggled to understand the swings of nature, these primitive peoples were only too willing to respect and reward anyone they believed capable of understanding and controlling this dangerous environment.

Thus were born the earliest practitioners of magic.

As the millennia rolled by, these wonder-workers evolved into the fakirs, witch doctors and shamans of early civilizations. They laid the foundations for the priests and soothsayers of Egypt, Greece and Rome, with their magnificent temples in which awe-struck mortals could witness spectacular illusions: altar fires that would explode into jets of searing, bright flame; doors that would be opened by invisible hands, and horns and trumpets that played of their own accord.

These elaborate illusions helped create the atmosphere in which the gods could utter their commandments, and oracles could reveal what the fates had in store.

Meanwhile, on the streets of these great empires, the forebears of our modern magicians were busily astounding their audiences. These entertainers wandered from town to town exhibiting their skills wherever they could find an audience, and gravitating towards the great public games and religious festivals.

The more accomplished would find themselves appearing in established theatres, or would be booked to amuse guests at great banquets.

Many, no doubt, followed the Roman legions as they swept across Western Europe and found their way into Britain.

As the Roman Empire collapsed, historical records became sparse, and it would be another four hundred years before Europe emerged from the so-called ‘Dark Ages’.

From the 8th century onwards, itinerant entertainers swarmed across Europe. Several achieved considerable respectability; they were called upon to entertain royalty and nobility, and were suitably rewarded.

Others found their talents in demand for more inspirational services. Just before the Battle of Hastings in 1066, for example, we learn how Taillifer appeared before the Norman soldiers and performed ‘many marvelous feats of dexterity, throwing up and catching his lance and sword, so that they all considered him an enchanter or conjuror.’ The Anglo Saxons on the other hand weren’t particularly impressed by his show of dexterity and he was promptly slain by an avalanche of spears.

By the 1100s, sleight-of-hand performers had become known as jugglers, who found themselves being constantly censured by officialdom. In 1106 they were bidden to reside in certain French cities. In 1150, St Bernard of Clairvaux preached that ‘the tricks of jugglers never please God; and a hundred years later, Louis IX vowed drive them out of France.

Despite this persecution they persevered, and several contemporary accounts of their activities have survived. We learn of a Dutch juggler who in 1272 cut off a boy’s head, then restored his victim to life. A performer was even said to have thrown his pony’s bridle into the air, whereupon he, his wife, their maid and the pony all climbed up it and vanished from mortal view. It is somewhat anti-climatic to learn that they were subsequently discovered drunk in a nearby tavern!

Meanwhile, the Crusades had opened up the vast and mystical knowledge of the Arab world, in particular Moorish scientists’ investigations into the secret art of the ancient Egyptian goldsmiths.

The Arabs called Egypt Khem and the art of working with gold they called al-kimiya, ‘the art of the land of khem.’

Whether this was the origin of the word alchemy is debatable but, with the Moorish occupation of Spain, their knowledge found its way into Europe and inspired the legendary search for the Philosopher’s stone.

Magicians and alchemists strove, among other things, to turn base metal into gold and their researches laid the foundations of modern chemistry, mathematics and science. But they also created numerous ingenious illusions, many of which would later be rediscovered and adapted by stage illusionists.

Whereas the Christian church was Willing, to an extent, to countenance the studies and illusions of its own clerics, it was equally willing to attribute similar feats to demonic assistance when the same things were done by the laity.

Fueled by the paranoia of fanatical clerics, who came to see the devil’s hand in any number of innocent pastimes, the infamous witch hunts began. Over a period of 200 years close on 40,000 unfortunate souls, some of whom were, doubtless, nothing more than sleight-of-hand performers, were executed as witches.

We will continue with our History of Magic in tomorrow’s blog. Meanwhile why not take a look at the London walks we have on offer.

Don’t forget that you can also order our Free Harry Potter London Tour PDF through the quick request box at the top right corner of this page.

Jack the Ripper London walk

Monday, May 4th, 2009

Our Jack the Ripper Tour is on the move.

From tomorrow, May 5th 2009, Our Jack the Ripper Walk meeting point will move to a new exit outside Aldgate East Underground Station.

Our new meeting point will be outside Exit Four of Aldgate East Underground Station. This is reached if you are arriving into Aldgate East from central or west London by turning right off the tube, going up the stairs, through the ticket barrier and Exit Four is the exit on the right.

If you our joining our Jack the Ripper London walks and travelling from the East of London, simply turn left off the train and follow the above directions.

Our Jack the Ripper Tour takes place seven chilling nights a week, and has been operating since 1982. We our the only one of all the London walks offerring Jack the Ripper tours that ask you to book. We do this because we like to limit our numbers to a sensible and manageable number of around 34 participants.

London walks that tell you there is “no need to book” cannot do this and the result is that participants on those tours can end up crammed on to an untidy scrum with 80, 90, 100 or sometimes over 200 people all struggling to see and hear one guide.

Those who join our walks often express relief when these massive cattle drive London walks pass us in the streets, and several of our clients have written to say how pleased they were to join a company that ensures they can hear and see everything. As we like to put it ours is the Jack the Riper walk that’s heard not herd.

Exit Four of Aldgate east Station is a great place to begin your Jack the Ripper London walk and we’re very excited about the move. For a start its almost directly alongside the site of St Mary’s Church, which was the White Chapel that gave its name to the area.

Furthermore Whitechapel High Street, on which our tour begins, featured in the story of Emma Smith, who was attacked nearby on April 3rd 1888, and who is the first name on the Whitechapel Murders file.

From here we go in to Gunthorpe Street, which in 188 was called George yard, and which was the place where the body of Martha Tabram was found in August 1888. This little, cobbled alley is exactly as it was in 1888 and still has a really sinister atmosphere about it.

From Gunthorpe Street we go to Thrawl Street where Mary Nichols, who many believe was the first actual victim of Jack the Ripper, was lodging at the time of her murder.

So, within moments of starting our Jack the Ripper’s London walk, you have passed two murder sites, and visited a street connected with another. You have gone in to a narrow, cobbled alley and seen buildings that survive from 1888 and which featured in the sotry of Jack the Ripper.

The large cattle drive tours that start from Tower Hill will, on the other hand, spend the first 50 or so minutes stopping in modern well lit streets which have virtually no connections with the Jack the Ripper murders. Furthermore, their numbers are so large they simply cannot squeeze in to the narrow, unchanged alleyways that typify what the area was like when Jack the Ripper stalked them.

So join us on London’s premier Jack the Rippe London walks and enjoy a welcome difference. Just remember that from Tuesday May 5th 2009 we will be meeting outside Exit Four of Aldgate East Underground Station, at the epicentre of the Jack the Ripper Murders. An remember when you join our London walks you are joining the tours that are heard not herd.

Go green with a walking tour

Wednesday, April 29th, 2009

Whether you are a visiting tourist or a London local there is always something to see and do in London city. London is one of the largest cities in Europe and all the traffic and other pollution that the city and its inhabitants produce every day is already loading the environment with strain.

Add to that all the bus tours and other vehicle driven tours that go around the city to the most famous tourist and sightseeing hotspots. Why not go green for a change with a London walking tour.

Walk, discover and be environmentally friendly at the same time

Instead of taking that bus tour to the most visited spots around London city, why not take a guided walking tour through some of the more historic and lesser visited streets and areas and get to know the city more intimately. You can think of London at a celebrity, the famous spots are the tabloid stories but the guided walking tours take you inside the city where paparazzi don’t venture.

Go green for the environment while you discover London afresh. Walking tours save fossil fuels, exhaust emissions and noise pollution to name but a few benefits. For the fitness-freak or someone just wanting to get a bit of exercise while on holiday, a London walking tour is the perfect way to see and experience the city. A walking tour lets you go green by providing you with leisurely exercise while you get to visit the more unique hotspots London has to offer.

Look at London with new eyes

Tuesday, April 28th, 2009

It is often difficult for people who were born in London and have lived there all their lives to realise they have unique privileges. Many of them take for granted the beautiful buildings that are many hundreds of years old, the quirky cobbled streets found everywhere and the sense of history that cloaks the entire city. For others who come from young countries - for example Australia and South Africa, -  London is a wonder world.

They come from countries where everything is brand new when compared to the ancient places in the UK. England was already old when many of these countries were newly colonised. Put yourself in their shoes when they walk into a building that dates back to the 12th century; it is pure magic.

Where time stands still

This makes the wonderful selection of London walking tours an amazing experience. Not only is there a huge variety to choose from, each of these walking tours take you back to a special time, you can experience what life was like, that we can only read about in books now. Shakespeare comes alive; he is no longer simply books or plays. You walk where he walked around on a normal day and this gives you unforgettable glimpses into a world that no longer exists.

The list is endless as each of the different walking tours focus on a time period, a well-known figure in history, some famous, some notorious. Take one of the village walks, leave modern London behind and for a few hours absorb the atmosphere of secret parts of London. You will wrap an extraordinary experience around you that will leave an impression for life.

King John

Sunday, April 26th, 2009

With the Television series Robin Hood thrilling viewers on Saturday night television, we decided that today’s blog would look at a name that is associated with this legendary English outlaw - King John.

King John (1167-1216), the fourth and youngest son of Henry 11, was the archetypal wicked king, whose record of rebellion and intrigue against his brother, Richard 1st, led contemporary historian William of Newburgh (1135-1198), to denounce him as “nature’s enemy”.

Nicknamed “lackland” on account of the fact that his brothers were given generous estates by their father, while he received none, he went on to earn the sobriquet by losing Normandy and Anjou. His bullying manner and excessive taxation provoked the powerful English barons to rebel against him, and on Monday 15th June 1215; he was forced to seal Magna Carta, the Great Charter, on the island of Runnymede.

Later hailed as the fundamental declaration of English liberties, it was at the time, little more than a criticism of his style of government and, as such, he had no intention of adhering to its terms. His reign ended with England wracked by civil war and many of his former subjects swearing allegiance to Louis of France.

But one place that he had a great reverence for was Worcester and, as he lay on his deathbed, he made a codicil to his will ordering that he was to be buried in the cathedral there. He directed that his body be laid to rest between the tombs of Worcester’s two saints, St Oswald and St Wulfstan - the latter of which had been a personal friend of his- and, although the bones of these two holy men have long since been dispersed, the tomb of “evil” King John can still be viewed immediately in front of the altar. The marble top of his tomb is actually the lid of his original coffin, and is said to be the oldest royal effigy in the country.

The tomb itself has been opened several times and in so doing has shed a little light upon an ancient legend concerning the Kings final days. It is said that, as death approached, John realised that, thanks to his wicked ways, the chances of his attaining heaven were, to say the least, limited. So he left orders that when he was laid in his grave he was to be dressed in the garb of a monk and, thus attired, he hoped to hoodwink his way into Paradise. When the tomb was opened in 1797, it is said that the rotted remnants of an ancient cowl were, indeed, found wrapped around his skull!

Obviously Worcester Cathedral is not featured on our London walks, but the story of King John and the Sealing of Magna Carta is an important part of our Political and Legal London walks. So it is, perhaps, worth knowing a little bit about the King who, must have been a bad ‘un because, as you will see over and over again when actors depict him in films, he had appalling table manners!

The Hell Fire Club

Saturday, April 25th, 2009

On our Historic City of London walks we take you in to a wonderful warren of alleyways that nestle behind the very busy Cornhill.

In these lovely old places time well and truly stands still and it wouldn’t be much of a surprise if a gentleman in Victorian attire just happened to stroll past you en route to some long ago appointment in the City of London.

Walks that take in this area include Dickens London, The London Ghost Walk, The Secret City and the Hidden London Pub Walk.

In the course of several of these London walks we stop outside the George and Vulture, established in 1600, which was where Sir Francis Dashwood founded his notoriously nefarious Hell Fire Club.

When we mention this on any of our London walks we get nods of approval from the tour participants. Several people also approach the guide and inist that the location was the Hell Fire caves out in West Wycombe.

Our guides always answer that the Hell Fire Caves are what are most associated with the group in the minds of the public, but it was here that the organisation began. We are then able to go into a history of the Club and, today’s blog is about the well known, though also little known about, Hell Fire Club. So let’s take an imaginary journey from London to the village of West Wycombe in Buckinghamshire.

West Wycombe is a delightful, though tiny, village, comprised of a single high street of timber and flint buildings, on the outskirts of which sits the magnificent seat of the Dashwood family, the beautifully Palladian West Wycombe Park. On the summit of the steep conical hill across the road from the house, is the immense Dashwood Mausoleum, behind which towers the strange golden ball that sits uneasily atop the church of St Lawrence. Meanwhile, hewn out of the hillside beneath are a series of caves, reached via an entrance that has been fashioned to resemble a gothic church and which adds to the overall ambiance of eccentricity with which the overall estate seems imbued.

The person responsible for all this was Sir Francis Dashwood (1708-1781), a man whose name has become a byword for hedonistic debauchery, and who is today best remembered as a leading light in the most infamous of all the so-called “Hell Fire” clubs. These secret societies had become popular with wealthy young aristocrats in the first half of the 18th century and in 1721 it was considered to necessary to pass a Royal edict condemning “Young People who meet together in the most impious and blasphemous manner.. and corrupt the minds and morals of one another”.

Ironically, Dashwood’s organisation, which is now perhaps the only one to be universally remembered, and which operated between the 1740’s and 1760’s, never actually called itself the ‘Hell-Fire-Club’, preferring instead to be known as the “Knights of St Francis”. John Wilkes (1725 – 1797), the radical politician, and an enthusiastic member, described their gatherings as “A set of worthy, jolly fellows, happy disciples of Venus and Bacchus, got together to celebrate women in wine”. The select central core of just thirteen  “apostles”, led by Sir Francis Dashwood, included Lord Sandwich, John Wilkes, the painter William Hogarth, poets Charles Churchill, Robert Lloyd and Paul Whitehead, whilst American, Benjamin Franklin, was reputed to have been an occasional visitor.

Although their early meetings probably took place at the homes of various members, including West Wycombe Park, Sir Francis began casting around for a base that would provide the necessary seclusion for the clubs activities. He settled on the ruins of the old Cistercian abbey at Medmenham, six miles from West Wycombe, which he restored to opulent splendour and inscribed above archway over the entrance the clubs motto Fay ce que voudras (Do as you wish).  Thereafter the society would also be known as “The Monks of Medmenham”.

Despite the fact that these self -styled monks certainly indulged in a goodly amount of sexual frolicking, and did include mock religious services in their rituals, there is no evidence to suggest that, as has been frequently claimed, they ever practiced Satanism. The rumour that they did, was probably begun by their enemies in the late 18th Century, and gathered momentum throughout the 19th and 20th Centuries. There is, however, a delightful, though spurious, tale that at one of the meetings, John Wilkes concealed a baboon, which he had dressed as the Devil, in a chest beneath his seat. At an appropriate moment, he jerked a cord which opened the chest and the creature jumped onto Lord Sandwiches shoulders who, believing that he had conjured up the Devil, cried out “Spare me gracious Devil: spare a wretch who never was sincerely your servant. I sinned only from vanity of being in the fashion; thou knowest I never have been half so wicked as I pretended: never have been able to commit the thousandth part of the vices which I boasted of…”.

The animosity felt by Lord Sandwich for John Wilkes would lead him to pursue a vendetta against him that would see Wilkes expelled from the House of Commons and ultimately, lead to his being jailed for three years. At the height of the Wilkes scandal, Sandwich is supposed to have exclaimed at him, “Upon my soul Wilkes, I don’t know whether you’ll die upon the gallows or of the pox” “That depends, my lord,” replied Wilkes “on whether I first embrace your lordships principles or your lordships mistresses”. But their feud also dragged in other members, including Sir Francis himself and, by 1766, he had effectively disbanded the Knights of St Francis” and thereafter they would be nothing more than a vague, albeit infamous memory, around whom all manner of salacious gossip would gather.

Tower Bridge on Our London walks

Friday, April 24th, 2009

On many of our London walks you get a view of Tower Bridge. Sometimes we cross over it, other times we see it as we make our way over London Bridge.

It is of course an iconic London landmark and its history, as detailed on our various walks of London, is fascinating.

Tower Bridge is both a symbol and a sham. It was designed by the engineer John Wolfe-Barry and the architect Sir Horace Jones.

It was the first bridge to be built down river of London Bridge (for which is now often mistaken), and provided a much needed crossing point in the East of the City of London.

However, two important considerations had to be taken into account for its design.

Firstly, it was to stand alongside the medieval Tower of London and consequently it had to blend in with the style of that ancient fortress. Secondly, it must not obstruct shipping and so it was stipulated that its opening span must give a clear width of 200 feet and a headroom of 135 feet. To achieve this Jones designed a bascule bridge (bascule being French for see saw on which principle the bridge would operate).

The first stone was laid in 1886 by the then Prince of Wales on behalf of Queen Victoria and over the next eight years 432 workmen toiled to erect a structure that has since become one of London’s best known symbols. In the process ten of them lost their lives, a relatively low figure considering the engineering feat required, which included sinking two huge piers into the bed of the river.

The bridge opened to general praise in 1894 and in its first year its famous drawbridge was raised 6160 times. Today the bridge is raised around 900 times a year.

Over the years Tower Bridge has witnessed many events.

In August 1912 Sir Frank McClean flew up the Thames in a sea plane and managed to fly beneath the upper and lower parts of the bridge. This remarkable feat was captured by newspaper photographers and has subsequently passed into legend.

In 1968 Flt Lt. Alan Pollock decided to mark the RAF’s 50th anniversary by repeating the feat. Despite the skill displayed, and the fact he was suffering the early stages of pneumonia, his superiors promptly threw him out of the RAF and gave him no right to appeal.

Although Tower Bridge was not seriously damaged in the Second World War, it was reputedly used as a navigation aid by German bombers who could use its distinctive shape to help get a fix on any part of London.

Later in the war the bridge became a “Bulls eye” aiming target for the German flying bombs. Tragedy struck when a V1 flying bomb flew between the two towers and killed the crew of the lift attendant’s tug which was moored alongside the bridge.

At 9.35pm on 30th December 1952 a crowded number 78 double decker bus bound for Dulwich was nearly half way across Tower Bridge when the bridge began to rise.

Albert Gunter, the 46-year old driver, said at the time, “I just couldn’t believe it. I was driving over the bridge when suddenly it seemed as if the road ahead was starting to sink. Then I realised that the part I was on was rising – and I had only a split second to make up my mind what I was going to do.”

Albert slammed his foot on the accelerator and the bus leapt across the widening gap and smashed on its chassis as it landed on the other side. Several passengers were injured, but they all survived and Albert was hailed as a hero.

Albert’s bravery was acknowledged with a £10 reward from the police and an invitation from one of the injured passengers, May Walshaw, to be best man at her wedding shortly afterwards.

Albert dismissed suggestions of bravery, observing modestly “it might have been any of the drivers on the route. I just happened to be there.”

The walkways that cross between the two towers of the bridge were intended to enable pedestrians to cross the bridge whenever the centre span was raised. However they were closed in 1910 due to, -depending on which account you read and choose to believe - them becoming a popular haunt of pickpockets; a regular place of assignation for ladies of the night, a favourite place for suicides to launch themselves into eternity from, or most probably, because so few people used them it simply wasn’t worth the cost and effort of keeping them open.

So next time you look at Tower Bridge, either in a photograph, or on one of our many London walks that incorporate it, spare a though for all the history that it has witnessed and remember that, no matter how well known a London landmark is, there is an awful of gripping history that simply doesn’t find its way into the regular guide books on London.