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Posts Tagged ‘Westminster Abbey’

Westminster Abbey - The Coronation Chair

Friday, November 4th, 2011

Our London walks will soon be featuring tours inside Westminster Abbey, the Coronation Church, built originally by King Edward the Confessor and later rebuilt by King Henry 111, the builder King.

Encased behind a glass screen in the St George’s Chapel of Westminster Abbey -  just before you exit -  is the coronation chair, which is probably the oldest piece of furniture in Britain to still be used for its original purpose. The chair itself is currently undergoing a restoration paid for by in part by the Abbey who will be contributing £50,000 towards the project, and a grant of £150,000 awarded by the Department of Culture, Media and Sport.

The Coronation Chair, which is also known as King Edward’s Chair, was first used at the Coronation of King Edward 11 in 1308, and since then it has been used for the coronation of all but three of our Kings and Queens. However, its origins go back to the reign of Edward 1st, one of this country’s great warrior king’s who reigned from 1272 to 1307. Edward 1st is buried in Westminster Abbey and his tomb boasts the inscription “Hammer of the Scots.”  During his reign Edward was determined to bring the Crown of Scotland under English control and, to that end, he fought a long and constant battle to subjugate the Scots.  In 1296  Edward managed to take possession of the Scottish Crown’s regalia. To show his superiority he broke the Great Seal of the King’s of  Scotland, observing as he did so “a man does good business when he rids himself of a turd.” He also captured and brought to England the Scottish Stone of Destiny, also known as the Stone of Scone, over which Scotland’s Kings had been crowned for many centuries.

To accommodate the Stone of Scone he commissioned the Coronation chair in the early 1300’s and decreed from henceforth English Monarch’s would be crowned in the chair sitting over the sacred Scottish coronation artifact. Symbolically, this would mean  that when an English Sovereign was crowned over the stone they would, in the eyes of God and all things sacred, become Sovereigns of Scotland as well.

Once the chair was complete, Walter, the Court Painter, was commissioned to decorate it with gilding and images of birds, foliage and the image of a King all painted in vivid and dazzling colours. Vague traces of this original paintwork can still be seen on the chair.

However, over succeeding centuries, the chair was subjected to an awful lot of misuse when not being occupied by a new monarch’s posterior.

Cloth was often nailed onto it at various coronations and, in the process, the woodwork was damaged time and again. Looking at the body of the chair, you can make out initials, fates and other graffiti that have been carved into it. Much of this defacing was done when the chair was stored in a side room at the Abbey and the schoolboys from the neighbouring  Westminster School decided it would be a wizard wheeze to carve their names onto it. One visible inscription reads ‘P Abbott slept in this chair 5,6 July 1800′.

The chair was further damaged when it was taken away to be “restored” for Queen Victoria to sit in it on the occasion of her Golden Jubilee in 1887.  When it was unveiled people were horrified to find that it had been coated with a thick, dark covering of varnish. Even Parliament demanded to know why this had been done to it.  Even more damage was done to the chair when the varnish was eventually stripped off.

In 1914 a militant wing of the suffragette movement succeeded in hanging a bomb packed into a hand bag on one of the pinnacles of the chair. Although the bomb went off, the damage wasn’t significant.

On Christmas Day 1950 a group of Scottish nationalist students succeeded in stealing the Stone of Scone from under the chair and managed to smuggle it back to Scotland. It was eventually recovered and returned to the base of the Coronation Chair where it remained until 1996 when John Major’s Conservative Government agreed to its being  officially returned to Scotland where it now resides at Edinburgh Castle, although it will be brought back to the Abbey and re-installed for all future Coronations.

As for the Coronation Chair itself, it has only ever left the Abbey on three occasions. In 1657 it was moved to Westminster Hall for the investiture of Oliver Cromwell as Lord Protector. In the 1880’s it was removed for the aforementioned restoration for Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee. And, during the Second World War in the 1940’s it was moved to Gloucester Cathedral for safe keeping.

But now it sits in St George’s Chapel where it is being lovingly restored and let’s hope that the finished article will be more pleasing to the eye and cause less uproar than that which greeted the previous restoration during the reign of Queen Victoria.

Our Westminster Abbey London walk will be launching in 2012.

Walks and London Sights

Thursday, October 29th, 2009

There are many sites and sights that you can visit on one of the London walks that are on offer.

If you are enjoying a Walk in Westminster, for example, why not stop in to Westminster Abbey.

The Abbey is the Coronation church and it is the place where almost all of England’s monarchs have been crowned.

On our Westminster London walks we tell the story of the Coronation of William 1st in the Abbey.

He was crowned here on Christmas Day 1066. It was very significant that he chose the area directly in front of Edward the Confessor’s tomb as the location for his coronation within Westminster Abbey. This was William reiterating his right to the English throne.

Evidently The Norman apetite for pillage and plunder was still not sated by the time of William’s coronation.

As the shouts of acclamation rang out around the Abbey at the moment when the crown was placed on William’s head, the Norman troops outside made the presumption that a riot had broken out.

It is quite interesting that they didn’t storm in to the Abbey to protect William, but rather they set fire to the surrounding houses and slaughtered yet more of the conquored Anglo Saxons!

Our Westminster London walks explore the streets where all this happened and tell the story of that tumultous year, 1066, which saw three King’s rule over England.

Our Popular London walks.

Wednesday, October 7th, 2009

Our London walks really have got London covered. We include many places that are off the beaten track, but we also include some of London’s most popular attractions, such as St. Paul’s Cathedral, Westminster Abbey and the Tower of London.

The most popular of our London walks is, without doubt, the Jack the Ripper Tour. This takes place seven nights a week and explores the old alleyways, and cobbled passageways of Whitechapel in the East End.

One of the things that makes our walk in the footsteps of Jack the Ripper so popular is the fact that we are the only London walks group that limit the number on our tours to a sensible and manageable number.

Next in the pecking order comes our ever popular London Ghost Walks.

These take place on Friday and Saturday nights and explore the old streets at the heart of the City of London.

The Walks through Haunted London are a great way to see the City whilst at the same time enjoying a night out that is different, slightly chilling and, above all else, thoroughly entertaining.

Our Friday night Walk is entitled Ghosts, Ghouls and Graveyards and it explores some of the old burial grounds and Roman ruins of London.

Our Saturday night Haunted London walk is entitled the Alleyways and Shadows Old City Ghost Walk and it explores some of the wonderful old alleyways off Cornhill. These places have changed very little since Charles Dickens knew them, and it was in this area that he opened his most ghostly of ghostly tales, A Christmas Carol.

The other popular one of our London walks is the free Harry Potter Tour which is available as a 30 page PDF, which you download yourself and then follow the step by step directions setting your own pace.

So there you have a quick synopsis of our most popular London walks which really will help you to see so much more of a City that spent 2,000 years preparing for your visit.

Homage To London - A Walk

Saturday, September 26th, 2009

Last night we gave you a glimpse of our Haunted London walks and put up a clip of Richard Jones conducting his world famous London Ghost Tour.

This morning we thought we’d treat you to a relaxing journey showing you some of the many wonderful sights that feature on our numerous London walks.

The photography for this short film was done by Sean East, a former Metropolitan police officer who took the photos for Richard’s book Uncovering Jack the Ripper’s London.

The first photograph was taken from the roof of Canary Wharf and shows the view of London looking down and across Docklands from the east of London.

Anyway, enough preamble why not click play on the screen below and watch as the streets of London unfold before you.

The poem that ends this sequence of photographs, incidentally is by William Dunbar. It contains the wonderful quote and sentiment that had been shared by so many people who have joined our Walks “London Thou Art the Flower of Cities All.”

So please enjoy this homage to London. Enjoy the views of landmarks such as Tower Bridge, Westminster Abbey, Trafalgar Square, Lambeth Palace, The Grenadier Pub in Wilton Row and, as mentioned earlier that spectacular view from the top of Canary Wharf in Docklands. London really is, as William Dunbar so rightly observed all those centuries ago - The Flower of Cities All.

1066 and All That on our London walks

Sunday, September 20th, 2009

On our City of London walks we tell the story of how William the first is not known as William the Conqueror in the one square mile of the City of London because he never actually conquered the city of London.

However the story of the Norman conquest of England features on several of our London walks such as Westminster and the eastern city on the latter of which we gaze upon William’s most prominent and lasting legacy to the city, the Tower of London.

But what were the events that led to the Norman invasion of England? Well, to help you and gave an understanding of what lay behind what has been called “the most famous year in British history” our next few blogs will deal with the events leading up to the Battle of Hastings, in 1066.

England in 1066 was the wealthiest, best governed, and most stable country in Europe.  The Normans held its throne in great esteem, simply because of its great age.

In 1013 Edward (who would later become Edward the Confessor) was driven into exile in Normandy by invading Danish armies.

Here he was under the protection of his uncle Duke Richard, his cousin, Duke Robert, and his nephew, the young William.

Crucially, as far as English history is concerned, when Edward became King of England in 1042 he at some stage in 1051, so the Normans later claimed, promised his nephew William that he would succeed him as King of England, following Edward’s death.

Edward was childless, and he devoted many of his latter years to the building of a great Abbey to the West of the City of London, which we now know as Westminster Abbey, the graceful walls of which feature on several of our Westminster London walks.

In 1064 Harold Godwinson, one of Edwards trusted noblemen, set sail on a trip to France.  A lot of mystery surrounds this trip, and the reason for it has never been fully ascertained with any degree of certainty.  The Normans maintained that Harold was sent by Edward to reiterate, in other confesses promise, apparently made in 1051, to make William, his successor.

What is certain is that Harold was sent on some mission by King Edward and his ultimate destination of peers to have been Flanders (modern Belgium) where Edward had a few relatives.

What ever reason for the voyage, Harold was blown off course by a storm, and his ship ran aground at Ponthieu in north eastern France, a small independent enclave, whose ruler owed fealty to William of Normandy.

Harold was handed over to William and effectively became his prisoner.

We will continue with our look at 1066 in our next blog. In the meantime why not join us on one of our many and varied London walks?

A Walking Tour of London

Wednesday, September 2nd, 2009

London walks make a great way to and experience the streets, buildings and hidden places of England’s capital.

There is so much to see and do in London and walks make the ideal way to really get beneath the skin of this fascinating city.

Walks around London can include the ever popular night time Jack the Ripper Tour. This takes place seven chilling nights a week and is both a fascinating and atmospheric tour of London.

Perhaps your interest is more towards the literary aspects of the City? Don’t worry we have several walks that you might find of interest. Although our Literary London walks are currently only for pre-booked groups of 20 plus they make a great way to experience and explore the streets of London following in the footsteps of some of England’s greatest author.

Richard Jones is the author of the acclaimed book Walking Dickensian London, so who better to guide you on a series of Dickens London walks.

Our Blue Badge Guides also lead a series of highly popular tours that can make a great addition to your day in London. How about a Royal London Walk around the old streets of the village St James? Why not let them lead you on your very own private tour around Westminster Abbey or the Tower of London. The cost of one of these great London walks in the company of a fully qualified Blue Badge Guide  is just £165 plus VAT per group plus admissions.

Richard Jones is the also the author of the international best seller Walking Haunted London. He leads  regular Haunted London walks on Friday and Saturday nights which takes in the more sinister sights and aspects of the City. A great way to spend two hours whilst also enjoying a night out that is both spooky and slightly different.

So when you’re looking for a way of exploring London then walks are far and away the best way to really get to know a city that has spent an amazing 2,000 years preparing for your visit.

The Worst Bombing of the Blitz in London.

Friday, August 21st, 2009

Today’s London walks Blitz Blog will look at the 10th May 1940 when London suffered the worst raid of the entire Blitz. On this date bombs fell for six and a half hours.

Westminster Abbey, the British Museum and the Tower of London were hit (the bomb in the Tower causing a total casualty list of one raven).

Overall, the raid killed 1,436 civilians and injured 1,800 more. Londoners could not know it, but the raid of 10 May was the last of the period we call the Blitz.

The campaign had severely depleted the operational strength of the Luftwaffe bomber fleets. The two Luftflottes had a combined strength of 860 on 1 September 1940; this was down to 820 on 1 October; by 1 December it had declined to 700.

The average number of bombers over target also declined from 197 in September 1940 to 134 in October, and was down to 120 by January 1941.

Now the Luftwaffe had other tasks ahead of it, and on 11 May 1941 Luftflotte II flew to Poznan in Poland to begin preparations for the invasion of the Soviet Union on 22 June.

For Hauptmann Aschenbrenner this would be his last campaign: he would die bombing Russia in 1943. Luftflotte III was detached to bomb North Africa, with a skeletal force left in northern Europe.

By 11 May 1941 more than 20,000 Londoners had died in the bombing and more would yet follow. Between 7 September 1940 and 10 May 1941 one in six Londoners were made homeless and 1,500,000 houses damaged to one degree or another.

Throughout Britain in this period 200,000 houses were totally destroyed and 3,700,000 damaged.

After the invasion of the Soviet Union the bombers returned
with the ‘Little Blitz’ of late 1941/1942.

Though damaging and harrowing for those affected, it was by no means the fearful onslaught of the Blitz proper.

The over-extended military commitment of Germany to war on several fronts meant that never again was the Luftwaffe able to mount a similar bombing campaign against mainland Britain.

They had not, however, abandoned plans for bombing altogether.

In 1942 development work was begun on a new weapon — the flying bomb.

We will discuss this in more detail at a later date when we return to our London walks Blitz Blog.

An Essential London walk

Monday, August 3rd, 2009

Here is an intriguing question. Of all the London walks which would be the most essential to someone on a short time frame?

The answer is not as simple as might first appear. For a start is the person seeking the walk a first time visitor to London?

If so then they’d need to see all the major sights.

So for someone like this an essential London walk would begin at Green Park Underground Station. They’d come out of the Piccadilly South Exit ( a bit tricky at the moment as its boarded up!) But there is a temporary exit from which they would turn right and then right through the gates just before the Ritz Hotel.

They’d then walk along this path and at it end veer right to arrive at Buckingham Palace.

From Buckingham Palace their London walk would continue across St James’s Park, crossing the lake in its middle via the bridge. A pause on the bridge for a photo of the fantastic view is a must.

Once over the bridge they’d go left and then  when they reach the road they’d go right.

At the end go left and they will emerge into Parliament Square.

Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament will be straight ahead. To the right is Westminster Abbey. The visitor could circumnavigate the Square to photgraph these attractions.

They would need to exit Parliament Square along Parliament Street and continue into Whitehall passing on the left the gates of Downing Street (number 10 being the home of the Prime minister Gordon Brown). A little further along they’d pass Horse Guards on the left where they can see the mounted guards.

Coming out into Trafalgar Square they can crane their necks and look up at Nelson’s Column which celebrates England’s greatest Naval hero, Horatio Nelson who was killed at the battle of Trafalgar in 1805.

All in all that route, though not particularly long, certainly crams in some great sights and some fascinating history so, for a first time visitor at least it could be considered one of the essential London walks.

The Rufus Stone

Wednesday, May 6th, 2009

Our London walks encompass many diverse stories drawn from many sources and locations. The Norman Conquest, for example, is covered on several tours, and the story William the Conqueror’s crowning in Westminster Abbey in 1066 is a favourite tale on our Westminster London walk.

In addition to our regular and historical tours we also conduct several haunted London walks that mine a deep vein of folklore and legend.

Richard Jones is London’s leading ghost walk guide and has published almost 20 books on Haunted Britain, not to mention numerous books of London walks on themes as diverse as Jack the Ripper, Charles Dickens and the haunted city.

Richard has travelled all over Britain and Ireland collecting ghost stories and today the blog will take you far from our London to the tranquil expanse of the New Forest.

The New Forest was  a favourite hunting ground with William the Conqueror whose treasury was at nearby Winchester.

It encompasses 90,000 acres of peaceful forest, heaths that glint golden with gorse or turn purple with heather, depending on the season; deep ponds, stretches of bog and delightful clearings in which graze the famed New Forest ponies.

In one such clearing near Minstead stands the Rufus Stone marking the site where William Rufus, the second son of William the Conqueror, met his untimely death.

Crowned William 11 in 1087 he was not particularly popular with his nobles who within twelve months had begun a revolt intended to secure the throne of England for his elder brother, Robert.

Offering a relaxation of the hated Forest Laws and an end to the crippling and unpopular taxations that the Conquest had foisted on them, Rufus appealed to his English subjects to support him. With their help, he was able to see off the threat and then promptly went back on his word once the danger had passed.

On August 2nd 1100 William joined a hunting party in the New Forest and, at some stage found himself alone with Sir Walter Tyrrell. According to the inscription upon the stone an arrow fired by Tyrrell at a stag, glanced off an oak tree and struck Rufus “on the breast of which he instantly died”.

Whether the killing was accidental or deliberate is one of histories most abiding mysteries. Tyrrell, perhaps wisely, fled abroad pausing, it is said, to wash the blood from his hands at a pond in nearby Castle Malwood which subsequently was said to turn crimson each year on the anniversary!

William’s younger brother Henry headed for Winchester to seize the treasury and have himself proclaimed King, whilst the other members of the hunting party made haste to secure their own estates under the new regime.

Meanwhile the Kings lifeless body was placed onto the cart of a charcoal burner named Purkiss and transported to Winchester for burial.

As the cart bounced and jolted over the rough forest paths it is said to have left in its wake a trail of blood which the ghost of Rufus follows each year on the anniversary of his sudden demise.

Our Theatreland London walks

Tuesday, April 28th, 2009

The area around Covent Garden, Shaftesbury Avenue and Haymarket is London’s Theatreland. We have several London walks that explore this area and in the course of those walks we highlight the lives of many famous, and not so famous, actors from stages past.

Today is the anniversary of the death of Thomas Betterton, who died on 28th April 1710. On our London walk around Covent Garden we stop outside London’s oldest theatre, The Theatre Royal, Drury Lane.

We explain how Charles 11, having been restored to the English throne in 1660, reintroduced theatrical performances into London and laid the foundations for the founding of this theatre.

He also introduced another theatrical innovation in that it was during his reign that actresses first started appearing on the English stage. It was in this exciting theatrical world that Thomas Betterton began his acting career and his story is covered on several of our London walks in theatreland.

The great actor Thomas Betterton (1635-1710) was hardly leading man material. He cut a somewhat clumsy figure. His head was large and stubby. He had tiny eyes and a face scarred by the ravages of smallpox. His neck was thick, his shoulders bent and his hands rarely rose above his waist. He was overweight, bordering on the obese, he couldn’t dance and his natural voice was deep and grumbling.”Yet,” as one biographer wrote, “he could tune it [his voice]by an artful climax which enforced universal attention even from the fops and orange-girls”

It was said of him that when he played in Hamlet he often frightened the ghost! Betterton normally had a ruddy complexion, but once the ghost appeared this complexion would turn deathly pale. Trembling all over he would simulate a frightened man so successfully that spectators shuddered.

The first time that the actor Barton Booth (1681-1733) played the ghost to Betterton’s Hamlet he was struck with such horror by the other man’s acting that he could not speak his part.

The actor Robert Wilks (1665-1732) was also tongue-tied on the first occasion he appeared with Betterton. They were playing in The Maid’s Tragedy, and the dignity of Betterton was so awe- inspiring that Wilks became confused.Noting his discomfort  Betterton remarked : “Young man, this fear does not ill become you — a horse that sets out at the strength of his speed will soon be jaded.”

Thomas Betterton, was born in Tothill Street, Westminster, in 1635. His father was an under-cook in the household of Charles I. Betterton  appears to have received a good education, but his father’s limited finances meant that he was unable to set his son up in a profession.

Betterton was, therefore,apprenticed to a bookseller named Rhodes, who had been keeper of the wardrobe to the comedians in the Blackfriars Theatre.

Thus Betterton began his connection with the stage and he became an actor at some time around 1656 in Sir William Davenant’s company.

When, soon after the Restoration of Charles 11, stage plays were licensed, patents were granted to two companies called “The King’s” and “The Duke’s.” The former played at Drury Lane and the latter at Lincoln’s Inn Fields, the site of which we cover on our Legal London walks.

Betterton belonged to the company of the Duke of York, and he acted so well that he was sent to Paris by King Charles II to study stage scenery and introduce theatre improvements into England.

In 1670 Betterton married Mrs. Saunderson, a player in the same company.

Twelve years later the King’s and the Duke’s companies were amalgamated, and Betterton was now acknowledged as the best performer of his day.

He particularly excelled in Shakespearean parts, though some of his contemporaries declared that he was merely an imitator of some of the great actors he had seen in his youth.

Although always popular with the public, Betterton was not well treated by the patentees of the theatre at which he played. In 1695 he resolved to run his own company and he duly opened a new theatre in Lincoln’s Inn Fields. Unfortunately this failed as did a second theatre he opened on Haymarket.

By the time Betterton had reached his early 70’s his health was failing and he was poverty-stricken. London society, however, too pity on him,and a benefit performance was arranged on his behalf.

At that benefit, which took place in 1709, Betterton acted in Love for Love, supported by many of his old colleagues who had gone into retirement.

A poignant moment occurred on the stage when Mrs. Bracegirdle and Mrs. Barry clasped him affectionately round the waist, while Mrs. Barry recited an epilogue which began :

“…So we, to former leagues of friendship true, Have bid once more our peaceful homes adieu,to aid Old Thomas and to pleasure you.”

The benefit raised the not unhealthy sum of £50. But the production had proved a great drain on Betterton’s failing health and, before the next season came round, he died on, April z8th, 1710.

He was buried in Westminster Abbey (which can be visited on our Westminster London walk). “I went to Westminster,” wrote Sir Richard Steele, “to see the last office done to a man whom I had always very much admired, and from whose acting I had received more impressions of what is great and noble in human nature than from the arguments of the most solid philosophers, or the descriptions of the most charming poets I had ever read.”