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Shakespeare London walks

Friday, November 27th, 2009

Although William Shakespeare is most associated with Stratford upon Avon, it was in fact in London that he made his name.

He arrived in London at some stage between 1587 and 1592 where he established himself as an actor and then as a writer. On our Walks in Shakespeare’s London we take you to the places that Shakespeare knew.

These, of course, include the obvious locations such as Bankside where the Globe Theatre was located. But there is so much more to Shakespeare’s London than this.

There’s a good chance that, as he came into London he traipsed his way along Holborn. If that’s the case he would have trudged past a black and white timbered building that still looks down on to Holborn today. Staple Inn dates from 1576 and is the only example left in London of the domestic architecture of Shakespeares’s day.

No far from Staple Inn you will find Gray’s Inn Hall where the first performance of A Comedy of Errors was given.

On our Secret London walks, we take you through Shakespeare’s Lost City encountering the site on which Shakespeare lived during much of his time in London. We also take you to St John’s Gate, which was once part of a monastery but which by Shakespeare’s day was the office of the Matser of the Revels, the official whose job it was to licence plays for performance.

The London building that looms over so many of Shakespeare’s plays is The Tower of London, indeed it is mentioned more by him than any other London building. So it is a must on any exploration of Shakespeare’s London.

So why not have a look at our various London walks and see for yourself what a wonderful and fascinating City London is.

Why Walks Are The Best Way to See London

Monday, June 29th, 2009

Walks are far and away the best way to see London.

Walks give you the opportunity to see the backstreets and hidden places where you can really get a feel for the city and its wonderful old buildings.

If you try and explore London from the top of a bus you get none of the atmosphere, none of the thrill of seeking out places where time well and truly stands still.

Walks really are the only way to explore London, so next time you are planning to venture out onto the capital’s highways then give the bus a miss and enjoy one of our healthy and green London walks.

Buses belch out fumes and are not at all environmentally friendly. Indeed bus fumes do an awful lot of damage to the very fabric of the old buildings of London.

Walks on the other hand are extremely green. Furthermore they are very healthy. Setting off to explore London at a measured jaunt can be both therapeutic and relaxing.

One of the main problems with exploring London on a bus tour is that you are divorced from your surroundings. Wouldn’t it be better to be inside that historic building that is simply pointed out on a bus tour and which you have gone by before you even get the chance to take it in.

Wouldn’t you rather be able to explore  a building, to see what other treasures its facade might be hiding.

London Walking Tours are a great way to do this. You can see the buildings, feel the buildings, experience the buildings. You can get in to the backstreets and hidden away places that are just as they were when Charles Dickens and William Shakespeare knew them.

So when you are planning to venture out onto the streets of London, give the bus a miss and opt for the green, healthier way of exploring the capital and join us on one of our London walks.

Shakespeare Walks in London

Monday, June 15th, 2009

On our London walks that take you through the places that Shakespeare would have known we pass the New Globe Playhouse that looms majestically on the south side of the River Thames across from St. Paul’s Cathedral.

However, we also delve in to the backstreets around Bankside and, as we do so, we encounter a plaque on a wall along Park Street that marks the site of the original Globe Playhouse - the theatre at which Shakespeare worked and at which audiences first thrilled to the words of the immortal Bard.

It was at the Globe that Shakespeare spent much of his career and on our London walks that cover this part of London we introduce you to the streets and people that he would have known.

The leading actor of the company (originally the Lord Chamberlain’s Men, later [1603] the King’s Men) was Richard Burbage. Other actors included Augustine Phillips, William Sly, John Heminges, Henry Condell, Cuthbert Burbage, Thomas Pope and William Kempe.

Will Kempe was the great jester of the Burbage company, having pioneered the roles of Peter in Romeo and Juliet and Dogberry in Much Ado About Nothing, but in 1602 the restless and eccentric Kempe left the company to dance the Morris from London to Norwich. Having achieved this to his satisfaction, Kempe then danced over the Alps and out of the history of the Globe.

He was replaced by Robert Armin, a much more subtle comic and tragedian than his predecessor. It was Armin who in 1605 first played the Fool in King Lear with Richard Burbage in the title role.

The Globe, in common with the other public theatres of the time, was a circular (in fact polygonal) structure, with three tiers of galleries surrounding an open inner circular space into which the stage projected. The audience could stand or sit in front of it. Above the stage was a turret containing pulleys and devices for swinging things or people onto the stage.

There were also cannon balls to be rolled across the floor of the ‘tiring house’ for effects such as thunder, and stage cannons for the alarms of war. From the turret flew a flag with a globe upon it to announce a performance in progress, and a trumpeter would sound out from the turret to summon the crowds.

The Globe burned down on 29 June 1613, during the first night of Shakespeare’s Henry Bacon, Sir Henry Wotton described the event thus:

The King’s players had a new play, called ‘All is True’, representing some principal pieces from the reign of Henry VIII, which was set forth with many extraordinary circumstances of pomp and majesty, even to the matting of the stage, the Knights of the Order with their Georges and garters, the Guards with their embroidered coats, and the like: sufficient in truth within a while to make greatness very familiar, if not ridiculous. Now, King Henry making a masque at Cardinal Wolsey’s house, and certain chambers being shot off at his entry, some of the paper, or other stuff, wherewith one of them was stopped, did light on the thatch, where being thought at first but an idle smoke, and their eyes more attentive to the show, it kindled inwardly, and ran round like a train, consuming within less than an hour the whole house to the very grounds.

This was the fatal period of that virtuous fabric, wherein yet nothing did perish but wood and straw, and a few foresaken cloaks; only one man had his breeches set on fire, that would perhaps have broiled him, if he had not by benefit of a provident wit put it out with bottle ale.

The Globe was rebuilt and was open again by 1614, but Shakespeare seems to have decided that this was the time to retire.

He went home to Stratford-upon-Avon, where he died three years later in 1616.

On our Shakespeare’s London walk we stand on the spot where many of his most stirring words first echoed and ponder how in The Tempest, written in either late 1612 or early 1613, Shakespeare seems almost to have anticipated the end of the Globe:-

Our revels now are ended.
These our actors, As I foretold you, were all spirits and
Are melted into air, into thin air:
And like the baseless fabric of this vision,
The cloud-capp’d towers, the gorgeous palaces,
The solemn temples, the great globe itself,
Yea all which it inherit, shall dissolve
And, like this insubstantial pageant faded,
Leave not a rack behind.
We are such stuff As dreams are made on,
and our little life Is rounded with a sleep.

The Tempest

The Globe continued with John Fletcher replacing Shakespeare as the playwright. But finally, along with the other theatres, it was suppressed by the Civil War Parliament of 1642 and pulled down.

On 12 October 1989, during redevelopment of the modern buildings that now stand on this site, archaeolog¬ists discovered what are believed to be the foundations of both Globe theatres.

The remnants are now preserved beneath the car park beyond the wall where the information boards that now adorn the site and which provide a little history on the age of Shakespeare.

It really is a poignant moment of our South London walks when we stand at this site and ponder the golden age of English theatre when Shakespeare’s words once sounded out around these very streets.

Shakespearean Wanderings

Friday, May 15th, 2009

Shakespeare’s London

As our Shakespeare’s London walks make their way along Park Street - on the south side of the River Thames from St. Paul’s Cathedral - we pass an alley called Rose Alley. On an office building nearby there is a blue plaque marking the site of the Rose Playhouse “The first Elizabethan Theatre on Bankside.”

In 1587 Philip Henslow,a carpenter turned theatrical impresario,purchased a plot of land on this site. Today just the aforementioned nondescript alleyway and blue plaque commemorate it, although its remains were re-discovered in 1989 and are now preserved under the unsightly office block.

Indeed, there is little on the site today to suggest that this is perhaps one of the most important theatrical sites in the world. Why? Because it was on this spot in 1592 that Shakespeare emerged from his so-called “lost years” and stepped into the spotlight of documented history as a playwright whose plays were beginning to pull in the audiences as well as if not better than the more established University educated playwrights such as Robert Greene, of whom more later.

Philip Henslowe was a business man to whom the takings of the various plays he staged were important. In early 1592 he had spent the considerable sum of £105 (almost £50,000 by today’s values) renovating the Rose Playhouse. We know this because he kept detailed records of his income and expenditure.

According to his diary, now preserved at Dulwich College, his newly refurbished theatre re-opened on 19th February 1592 with Robert Greene’s Friar Bacon and Friar Bungay. The attendance was poor and Henslowe’s share of the takings was a measly 17 shillings and thrupence, the equivalent of 86 pence today.

Two days later another Robert Greene play Orlando fared even worse and brought in just 16 shillings and 6 pence. Things improved slightly on the 26th February when Marlowes The Jew of Malta brought in 50 shillings.

But then, on the 3rd March 1592, Henslowe records that he staged a play called Harry the sixth.

This play broke box office records and netted him 3 pounds 16 shillings and 8 pence, close to £2,000 in today’s money. Three days later another performance of the same play brought in £3, whereas another Robert Greene play A Looking Glass For London and England made just 7 shillings.

In all Henslowe would stage Henry V1 fourteen times in the next three months and would make some £30 in the process.

And we know today, although the audience then probably didn’t know - and to be honest even if they had of known they probably wouldn’t have cared much - that the plays author was William Shakespeare.

So by 1592 Shakespeare’s talent as a writer had seen him trounce some of the more established playwrights at the box office, and for Robert Greene at least the prospect of a man who he apparently considered to be an ill educated country bumpkin daring to win better audiences than him was, quite simply, too much.

Robert Greene’s is a sad story. He was an educated man who had attained a Masters degree from Cambridge University. He had a wife and a son, but he spent her inheritance and then abandoned both of them.

By 1592 he had sunk as low as any man of letters could. He was eeking out an existence churning out pamphlets on the cardsharps, the bawdy houses and the brothels of low-life London, the London that he knew only too well. He had a mistress who bore him another son and without any apparent sense of irony the destitute Greene named the infant Fortunatus.

By August 1592 Greene health was failing rapidly and he would have found himself dying in the gutter had it not been for the charity of Mr and Mrs Isam, a poverty stricken shoemaker and his wife, who took Greene together with his mistress and infant son into their lice ridden hovel here on Dowgate - a stones throw from St Paul’s Catehdral- and a thoroughfare that we cover on several of our historical City of London walks.

On June 11th 1592, following a riot of the apprentices at one of the Southwark theatres. The authorities reacted by ordering the closure of the theatres. The actors left London and went on tour around the country.

Greene though lay dying on his lice-ridden bed of straw. His thoughts turned bitterly to those actors who were off in the provinces performing his plays and profiting from his creations.

As the resentment boiled within him he focussed it on one man in particular. The young upstart who, without the benefit of a university education, had dared to trounce him at the box office.

Greene penned a letter, which was intended for Christopher Marlow, Thomas Nash and George Peel, fellow playwrights. In that letter he made a blistering attack on William Shakespeare. It read:-

Base minded men all three of you, if by my misery you be not warned. For unto non of you sought those burrs to cleave those puppets that spake from our mouths. Those antics garnished in our colours. Yes. Trust them not, for there is an upstart crow beautified with our feathers,that with his tiger’s heart wrapped in a player’s hide, supposes that he is as well able to bombast out a blank verse as the best of you. And being an absolute Johannes Factotum is in his conceipt the only Shakescene in the country.

This is just one of the many anecdotes about the immortal Bard that you will hear on our Shakespeare in London walks.

A Spot of Bother For Shakespeare

Saturday, April 18th, 2009

April 23rd is approaching, a date which is something of a double celebration. Not only is it St George’s Day, but it is also Shakespeare’s birthday.

In the lead up to this auspicious occasion we will be undertaking several Shakespeare’s London walks which will look at different aspects of the City that he knew.

Needles to say several of those London Walking Tours will pass the Ne Globe Playhouse which stands on the south bank of the River Thames opposite St. Paul’s Cathedral.

One of the stories we tell on our Shakespeare London walk is how William Shakespeare inadvertently found himself embroiled in a notorious plot to remove Elizabeth 1st from the throne of England. The events, as far as Shakespeare’s involvement was concerned, actually centred on the original Globe Playhouse, which stood a few Streets behind the New Globe, the site of which is covered on several of our London walks around Southwark.

It was at this Playhouse that many of Shakespeare’s plays received their first airing and it was here that Shakespeare found himself inadvertently embroiled in the aforementioned plot that could have had fatal consequences for him.

On Friday 6th February 1601, some of the Earl of Essex’s followers turned up at the Globe and requested that Shakespeare’s play Richard 11 be given a special performance the following afternoon.

The actors replied that the play was now an old one and unlikely to attract an audience. Essex’s men promised to indemnify the players against any loss that they might incurr and so at three O’clock on the Saturday afternoon the play, which deals with the deposing and killing of a monarch, went ahead.

What Shakespeare and his fellow players didn’t know was that the play was to be a rallying call for Essex’s followers to rise up in revolt, in order that he might seize the city and ultimately the throne of England, with Essex then ruling as Lord Protector.

Although Essex gave explicit instructions that the Queen was not to be harmed, one of his supporters later claimed that they had agreed to “draw blood from herself” should their coup fail.

Throughout the night of 7th February Essex and his followers made their preparations to seize the City of London.

The next morning he and several hundred followers rode into the City. But no sooner had he got there than a herald proclaimed him a traitor, and his supporters began to fall away. Racing back to his home in Essex the crestfallen nobleman realised that the game was up and, having burnt any incriminating documents, he gave himself up. On February 25th , Ash  Wednesday he was beheaded at the Tower of London.

Shakespeare’s company were suspected of being involved in the rebellion, but they argued that since they had been requested to put on the play at the request of their betters -  all of whom were Lords and Knights of the realm - it would have been unseemly to refuse.

Luckily their innocence was accepted and they were even summoned to court to perform before the Queen. We don’t know which play they presented but it would have been typical of the Queen’s sardonic sense of humour to have requested that they perform the play that had been intended as the rallying call for rebellion - Richard 11.